Fraternity-Testvériség, 2005 (83. évfolyam, 1-4. szám)

2005-01-01 / 1. szám

Page 11 Fraternity- Testvériség My Cifraszűr By Kathy A. Megyeri On my last trip to Hungary, 1 discovered the most amazing place, Central Market in downtown Budapest. The entire first floor holds locally grown produce, paprika, beer, and gifts. However, the second floor is a treasure of crafts, needlework, clothing, Herend china, and embroidered linens. In one booth, Iluska Bt., a superior sales clerk, Makkai Attilane, showed me a Hungarian tuxedo made in superb black wool expressly for females. I have worn mine often and value the intricate braid work on the bodice. But the real find was the Szur, an outstanding example of the cut felt appliqué technique used in Hungary. I learned that the Szur is a woolen cloak worn by the nomadic shepherds in the extreme climate of the Hungarian plains usually by horsemen from Hortobágy. Simple and utilitarian, it functioned as a saddle blanket, bedroll and even for food storage when the sleeves were sewn closed. By the early 20th century, the Szur became a lavish, richly colored symbol of prosperous countrymen. When a suitor left his Szur behind at his beloved’s house after proposing, he’d know the family’s acceptance or rejection of him if the cloak remained inside or was thrown out onto the street. The designs within the intricate cutwork are derived from nature but were originally flowers. Until the early 19th century, large areas were unembroidered. Then, flowers and woodland motifs were traced into patterns as they are now. The appliqué is stitched and then painstakingly cut away to reveal roses, flower buds, tulips, carnations and rosemary as well as cherries, wolfs teeth, and snails. Each flower has a tiny hole cut for little “seeds” symbolizing the mysteries of life’s beginnings. Within the Hungarian cooperatives, artisans have handed their skills down from master to apprentice and mother to daughter. A company called “lanya” meaning daughter is located in Sheffield, Vermont and makes a Szur in wool melton that is lined Kathy Megyeri in her Cifraszűr with microfleece and trimmed in hand cut felts. Owner Gay Ellis makes hats, gloves and purses as well as coats in colors that range from garnet to black to cream. But mine, a full-length coat, is a work of art in black and red, and when I wear it, admirers want to know its history and place of origin, but it is a heavy garment and can only be worn during the few short winter months where I live. The cost of such garments depends on the amount and intricacy of the cut felt work. Right now, I’m saving my money for the short version of the Szur that would allow me more mobility and is lighter to wear in more moderate climates. But I so treasure the craftsmanship and history of my Cifraszur that Em considering having it hung as a wall art piece when not worn. It’s the best souvenir I ever returned with from Hungary. A tavaszi idő dicsérete Balassi Bálint Áldott szép Pönkösdnek gyönyörű ideje, Minden egészséggel látogató ege, Hosszú úton járókot könnyebbítő szele! Te nyitod rózsákat meg illatozásra, Néma fúlemile torkát kiáltásra, Fákat is te öltöztetsz sokszínű ruhákba. Neked virágoznak bokrok, szép violák, Folyó vizek, kutak csak neked tisztulnak. Az jó hamar lovak is csak benned vigadnak. Mert fáradság után füremedt tagokat Szép harmatos füvei hizlalod azokat, Új erővel építvén úzéshez inokot. Sőt még az végbeli jó vitéz katonák, Az szép szagú mezőt kik széllel bejárják, Most azok is vigadnak, az időt mulatják. Ki szép füven lévén bánik jó lovával, Ki vigan lakozik vitéz barátjával S ki penig véres fegyvert tisztíttat csizmaszárral. Újul még az föld is mindenütt tetőled, Tisztul homályábul az ég is teveled, Minden teremtett állat megindul tebenned. Ily jó időt élvén Isten kegyelmébúl, Dicsérjük szent nevét fejenkint jó szívbúi, Igyunk, lakjunk egymással vígan szeretetbúl.

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