Kovács Ferenc et al.: Fardagály és kámvás rokolya. Divat és illem a 19. században (Budapest, 2010)
Az öltözködés története 1840 - 1900
________.____________ AZ ÖLTÖZKÖDÉS TÖRTÉNETE 1840-1900 azonban egészen más, mint a hetvenes években. A „raffolt” (redőzött) szoknyák alatt hihetetlen nagyságúra duzzad. Báli ruhák és utazóruhák alatt egyaránt ott rejtőzködik a női divatnak ez a legkonokabb és legindokolatlanabb kinövése. Időközben egyre jobban elterjedt a varrógép. Ami eddig verejtékes munka volt, az 1880-as évekre játékká válik. Elkövetkezik a ruházkodás kaméleonszerű váltakozása. A nyolcvanas évek elején még 2-3 szezonon át is 54 ■lódik. : elő/arrás t kell szalag hátul zélére lint a sor a sony■ bárisipke iával, is tolvarszélehátllátott reken kabát Dersia belül rösbe >ig ér illelve eíyek gallér Hat 17. sz. Ebéd, vagy estélydlt&eet beígeszin peau de sóiéból csipkefodorral. A Divat Salon egy lapja, 1892 A page from Divat Salon, 1892 Legyező, fekete atlaszselyem, 1890-es évek. MNM Fan, black satin, 1890s, HNM Skirt hemlines begin to narrow from 1872 and by 1876, having gradually lost all of its steel hoops, the width of the skirt had diminished entirely. The fabric used for the dresses is of exemplary quality, deep velvet, heavy satin, soft camelhair and mohair, in the summer muslin, organdie and silk. Cheerful colours are the most popular. They wear two types of coat: the loose-backed, Rococo-style contouche, or the redingote with more gentlemanly tailoring and a turned-down collar. The preferred hairstyle is made up of heavy, thick braids built up into large buns. In contrast to the over-decorated dresses, jewellery is relatively simple: enamelled medallions on a thin velvet ribbon. On their heads they wore a scarf-like lace bonnet or a small hat worn to the side and brought forward to cover part of the forehead, with ribbons and veils. The Tight Dress (1877-1881) The bustle ceases to be fashionable in around 1877 and is superseded for a short period by the tight dress. This was as tight as possible from the neck to the ankles, so that ladies would not ruin their dainty walk with large steps. As the Magyar Bazár fashion periodical wrote in 1877: "If one is able to walk, one is not yet elegantly dressed". The one-piece princess dress becomes the favourite costume of socialite women. It does not require any less fabric than in the days of the bustle, however. Skirts had long trails with curls and plaited puckering and usually a large bouquet ofbows at the back for decoration. Instead of the array of lace and ribbons this type of dress, which is more serious and tailored almost like gentlemen’s clothing is decorated with mildly radiant
