Kovács Ferenc et al.: Fardagály és kámvás rokolya. Divat és illem a 19. században (Budapest, 2010)
Tartalom
TARTALOM CONTENTS Fardagály és kámvás rokolya - Divat és illem a 19. században ......6 A 19. századi divatlapok és divatképek ...............................................8 Az irodalmi divatlapok..............................................................................8 Női lapok jelentős divatrovattal..............................................................16 Divatlapok................................................................................................20 Az öltözködés története 1840-1900 ..................................................25 A biedermeier (1815-1847)..................................................................25 Neobarokk (1840-1853)......................................................................30 A második császárság divatja, a krinolin (1853-1870) .........................31 Átmenet a krinolinból a tuműrbe (1865-1868) ..................................41 Az első tuműr (1869-1876)..................................................................45 A szűk ruha (1877-1881).......................................................................50 A második turnűr (1881-1890) ............................................................50 A plasztikus divat (1890 1893) ............................................................56 Homokóra-sziluett (1893-1898) .........................................................56 A korai szecesszió (1896-1903)............................................................60 A dísz-magyar öltözetről .......................................................................61 Magyar divatáru-kereskedők Pesten (1840-1900)........................72 Alter Antal...............................................................................................73 Alter és Kiss ............................................................................................75 Monaszterly és Kuzmik...........................................................................75 Holzer Simon..........................................................................................77 Kunz József és Társa...............................................................................81 Mössmerjózsef.......................................................................................83 Kollarits József és fiai...............................................................................88 Girardi József...........................................................................................88 Árvay János és Társa...............................................................................89 Tiller Mór és Társa .................................................................................89 Egy-két érdekesség..................................................................................90 A boltcímerekről.....................................................................................91 Egy kis 19. századi illemtan..................................................................93 Megszólítások..........................................................................................93 Levelezés .................................................................................................95 Főrangúval szembeni viselkedés ............................................................95 A látogatások...........................................................................................97 Ebéden való részvétel.............................................................................100 A társadalmi összejövetelek csúcsai: a bálok ........................................102 Lovagiasság avagy a hölgyekkel való bánásmódról..............................105 A kézcsókról ..........................................................................................105 Sértések megtorlása: a párbaj ................................................................105 Eljegyzés, házasság.................................................................................107 Higiénia és öltözködés ..........................................................................107 Legyező-, kesztyű- és zsebkendő-nyelv...........................................109 A legyező-nyelv......................................................................................109 A kesztyű-nyelv......................................................................................117 A zsebkendő-nyelv ................................................................................123 Tournures and Hooped Petticoats - Fashion an Etiquette in the 19th Century .....................................................................................6 Fashion Periodicals and Fashion Plates of the 19th Century.......8 Literary Fashion Books..................................................................................8 Women’s Periodicals with notable Fashion Columns ...............................18 Fashion-Books .............................................................................................20 A History of Costume 1840-1900 .....................................................25 The Biedermeier Period (1815-1847).......................................................25 The Neobaroque (1840-1853).................................................................31 Fashion during the Second Empire and the Crinoline (1853-1870)........33 Transition from Crinoline to Tournure (1865-1868).............................47 The first Bustle (1869-1876).....................................................................50 The Tight Dress (1877-1881) ..................................................................54 The second Bustle (1881-1890)...............................................................56 Statuesque fashion (1890-1893)...............................................................58 The Hourglass Silhouette (1893-1898)....................................................59 On Hungarian Formal Attire...............................................................61 Hungarian Fashion Merchants in Pest (1840-1900)...................72 Antal Alter...............................................................................................73 Alter and Kiss ..........................................................................................75 Monaszterly and Kuzmik........................................................................76 Simon Holzer..........................................................................................78 József Kunz and Associate.......................................................................81 JózsefMössmer.......................................................................................86 József Kollarits and Sons ........................................................................87 József Cirardi...........................................................................................88 János Árvay and Associate.......................................................................88 Mór Tiller................................................................................................89 A Few Curiosities....................................................................................90 On Shop Signs........................................................................................90 A little 19th century Etiquette ............................................................93 Forms of Address....................................................................................93 Correspondence.....................................................................................95 How to behave with Peers and Nobility.................................................96 Visiting....................................................................................................97 An Invitation to Lunch..........................................................................100 The Pinnacle of Social Gatherings: the Ball..........................................101 Chivalry, or how to treat ladies .............................................................104 On the Kissing of Hands.......................................................................104 Reprisal for Insults: The Duel ..............................................................104 Engagement and Marriage....................................................................106 Hygiene and toilet.................................................................................107 Fan, Glove and Handkerchief Language........................................109 Fan Language.............................................................................................109 Glove Language .........................................................................................117 Handkerchief Language.............................................................................123
