É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter I.—In Westernmost Färs

I

O IN WESTERNMOST FÄRS [Chap. I to rejoin it from Ardakän in the north, and since the intervening ground was altogether unexplored there was a special inducement to make this detour. It will be seen further on that I had no reason to regret my decision. After starting from Ardakän on the morning of November 27th, our route led first across broad down-like ridges furrowed by narrow valleys. In these lively streams, called after the small hamlets Kharkish and Chashmasafld higher up, descend from the high snow-capped range of Barm-firöz in the north, culminating in the Rünj peak (12,049 feet). The contrast between these utterly bare rolling downs and the fertile plain to the east was striking. Turning off from the Chashma-safld stream to the southwest after marching about 8 miles the broad ridge of Bijeshki was gained by a fairly steep ascent at an elevation of about 7500 feet. An impressive view was had from here of the great snow-clad range to the north. After passing across the small valley of Rüshir containing some fields and a ruined tower there was reached, beyond a low narrow saddle, the lower end of the wide open valley known as Chahär-darra or Gör-espld. Its stream together with that of Rüshir was said to join the Shash-pir below the bridge of Pul-i-Jüjak (Düzakh), crossed by the caravan route away to the south-east. The broad elevated valley of Chahär-darra, stretching away far to the north-west, forms a favourite summer grazing-ground of both Turkl-speaking Qäshqais and the Jäwl branch of the Mämasäni tribes. It was utterly deserted at this season, and with a bitterly cold wind blowing in our faces it made me feel as if I was once again on a Pämir. The domed tomb of some old Qäshqai chief, curiously