É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter I.—In Westernmost Färs

Sec. ii] AN ANCIENT MOUNTAIN ROUTE 13 like those Kirghiz ' Gumbaz ' to be found on the Pamirs, emphasized this resemblance. From it the valley has taken its alternative name of Gör-espld, meaning the ' White Tomb '. A short distance above this conspicuous structure we turned off from the valley, which stretches for a considerable distance farther up to the north-west along the foot of the rugged Pasköhak massif, and after a short but steep ascent reached the broad saddle of Bolsöru. This marks the rim of the central Persian tableland at an elevation of about 7500 feet. From a hill-top above the pass, which we climbed for the sake of a plane-table station, the eye ranged far over a wholly different landscape. Close growth of oak trees had met us on reaching the saddle, and below it to the south the steep hillsides bounding narrow valleys are clothed with rich forest. It was a real treat for the eyes to behold this wealth of vegetation with its bright autumn tints lit up by the setting sun. This welcome change from the arid landscapes of Färs made me almost forget the fatigue caused by the abrupt descent over extremely steep slopes. The way led through luxuriant oak forest down the flank of the Pasköhak massif by a stone-encumbered path which our brave mules, heavily laden, could follow only with great difficulty. After about 2 miles of such descent the wooded slope became easier, and 1 mile farther on we reached a small patch of fairly level ground where the tents could be pitched by nightfall. The spot is known as Barebld, from a few stone-built huts occupied during the summer months by Jäwi tribesmen. It was delightful hill scenery which met the eye next morning. Oak trees clothed even the precipitous rocky