É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter I.—In Westernmost Färs

Sec. i] FROM BUSHIRE TO ARDAKAN 3 a week before all arrangements for transport, escort, etc., were completed. Of special importance among these was the provision of suitable transport for my party in the shape of sixteen hardy mules hired from Käzarün. My previous journey in Färs had shown me the great powers of endurance displayed by these excellent animals. The experience subsequently gained on this new journey has made me feel even more grateful for the pluck and persevering strength with which they overcame all difficulties, even on the worst tracks to be faced on our moves in the hills. It was due to the remarkable qualities of these mules and the great care with which they were looked after by their hard-worked owners, that even the trying weather conditions experienced during the winter rains did not seriously impede our progress, however much they affected the ground, especially amidst slippery limestone hills. The use of motor transport on such high-roads as have been made practicable for it between main centres of trade and traffic has in recent years greatly reduced employment for mules and in consequence also the rates of their hire. On November 17th we started from Shiräz with an escort of ten mounted gendarmes for Ardakän, which was my first goal. As the road led up the broad valley to the north-west from which Shiräz receives the water feeding its canals, large gardens were passed in close succession for close on 8 miles. The massive high walls enclosing them and the residences within, built more or less for defence, testified to the prolonged insecurity which prevailed here before and during the Great War while the contending