É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter I.—In Westernmost Färs

I

O IN WESTERNMOST FÄRS [Chap. I parties of the Qäshqai and Qawäm tribal chiefs fought over the booty of Shlräz. Higher up there stretched a bare gravel plain holding dry flood beds between picturesque hill chains on either side, broken only here and there by small patches of cultivation. At the walled village of Guyüm, reached after an 18-mile march, heavy rain detained us for two days. Slightly raised ground, marking an abandoned part of the village site, fortunately protected our tents from the flood that spread all round. A short break in the rain allowed me to visit the picturesque little hill town of Qal'ät, some 5 miles to the west, nestling on the steep slope of the Köh-i-barfí, the ' Snowy Mountain which rises to some 9400 feet and has for ages supplied Shlräz with the snow needed to keep drinks cool in the summer. The high tower overlooking Qal'ät and accounting for its name had been reported as very ancient. Its massive masonry built with undressed stones furnished no clear indication of age, but the structure may well be medieval. More interesting was the town itself, built on a narrow ridge by the side of which a fine streamlet rushes down in cascades. With its closely packed houses rising in tiers and entered through gloomy vaulted passages, it recalled to me old towns of the Italian Riviera built on equally steep slopes, or rather what they might have looked like in the dark ages. Along the hillside stretch famous vineyards, upon the produce of which the inhabitants mainly live. Resuming our journey on November 20th, we ascended the gradually narrowing valley past the hamlet of Kalistän and across the watershed between Shlräz and the Ardakän basin to the hamlet of Shül. Until the establishment some