É. Apor (ed.): Stein, Aurel: Old Routes of Western Iran. (Budapest Oriental Reprints, Ser. B 2.)

Chapter I.—In Westernmost Färs

I

O IN WESTERNMOST FÄRS [Chap. I On November 6th, 1935, I had landed at Bushire from Karachi, with Surveyor Muhammad Ayüb Khan and my two Kashmiri servants. M. Karlml, of the Department of Antiquities, Iran, had awaited us there. After a busy day's stay under the hospitable roof of Colonel Sir Trenchard and Lady Fowle at the British ConsulateGeneral, I proceeded to Shlräz, which was reached by motor car in two days. The road, familiar to me from former journeys, has often been described by European travellers since it became the usual means of access to central Iran from the sea. As range after range of these precipitous and for the most part utterly barren mountains was crossed by a succession of passes apt to test the skill and nerves of the motorist, I felt as much as ever convinced that it was this ascent to the tablelands of Persis to which the classical designation of Climax Megale, the ' Great Ladder ', appropriately applied.

2 It seemed difficult fully to realize what this route must have meant for poor suffering mules, ponies and donkeys before motor transport drove them off it. My practical preparations at Shlräz were greatly facilitated by the convenient base which the hospitable welcome at the British Consulate kindly accorded by Colonel H. A. W. and Mrs. Hoyland assured to me. My stay was made' pleasant also by the very helpful attitude of the Iranian authorities. H.E. Majld Khän Ahl, the enlightened late Governor-General of Färs, in particular was kind enough to receive me as an old friend and to do everything to smooth my path. All the same, it took fully 2 Cf. Pliny, História naturalis, vi. 26. That the passage refers to the route from the coast to Persepolis was rightly recognized by Ritter, WestAsien, p. 771 sq.