A Móra Ferenc Múzeum Évkönyve: Studia Historica 10. (Szeged, 2007)

FÜREDER Balázs: Szegedi ételnevek a magyar gasztronómiában. Fogások, melyek tovább öregbítették a város hírnevét

BALÁZS FÜREDER DISHES NAMED AFTER THE CITY OF SZEGED IN HUNGARIAN GASTRONOMY COURSES DEEPENING THE REPUTATION OF THE CITY Nowadays it is quite often the case that while ordering in a restaurant we say: 'We'll have two à la Szeged, one r la Baja and three r la Bologna'. The waiter perceives without hesitation that the guests order three fish soups and three pasta dishes with minced meet. In the history of gastronomy in Hungary, it is not unusual to find hints to a nation or place of origin - may it be a country, a province, a settlement or other kind of geographical names - in a name of a dish. Researches have revealed that it was first time in Aunt Rézi's work entitled Cookery-book form Szeged, published in 1876 that recipes containing the name of the city were found. Later on several cookery-books contained recipes from Szeged, regardless of the fact, whether the book was published in the city or not. These examples show that it is the paprika fish, the fish-soup and the tart with sour cream that the city is famous for. Beside this, Hungarian gastronomy experts recommended goulash, dishes made from catfish and a kind of bread referring to the city of Szeged. In Hungarian gastronomy recipes containing the name of Szeged had their flourishing period from the second half of the 19

th century to the middle of the 20

th century. In the second half of the 20

th century due to historical reasons, a part of the dishes of former periods disappeared almost completely. The name of several dishes has become simpler, may be due to the fact that the reference to Szeged has stuck to the name of the food so fast, that later on it was enough to refer to the dish without the reference of its origin. Nonetheless, a great number of specialities have kept the reference to Szeged in their names, adding to the reputation of the city. Considering the past and present of gastronomy in Szeged, the name of the city will surely appear in several more dish-names in the future.