A Herman Ottó Múzeum Évkönyve 45. (2006)

Gyulai Éva: A kassai és Abaúj vármegyei szabócéhek a 16-19. században. Topográfia és források

A-D = ún. Zsoldos Benő-gyűjtemény Kee I-V. = Céhek iratai SRKM = A Sárospataki Református Kollégium Gyűjteményei, Múzeum §ABBRS - Statny archív v Banskej By strici, poboéka Rimavská Sobota (a Besztercebányai Állami Levéltár Rimaszombati Fióklevéltára, Szlovákia) CRS = Cechy v Rimavsky Sobote (1609-1871) (Rimaszombati céhek iratai) SAK = Statny Archív v KoSiciach (Állami Levéltár, Kassa - Szlovákia) AZ = Abaúj vármegye levéltára SAKR = Státny archív v KoSiciach, poboőka Roznava (Kassai Állami Levéltár Rozsnyói Fióklevéltára, Rozsnyó-Berzéte, Szlovákia) Z = Cechy a spolocenstvá mesta Rozfíavy 1612-1919 (Rozsnyó város céheinek iratai) Z-II = Cech krajőirsky (szabócéh) Z-X = Cech halenarov (szűrcsapócéh) VSM = Vychodoslovenské Múzeum, KoSice (Kelet-Szlovákiai Múzeum, Kassa - Szlovákia) CA = Céhes levéltár M. Krajőiri = magyar szabók N. Krajőiri = német szabók F = Céhek tárgyi gyűjteménye TAILORS' GUILDS IN KASSA AND COUNTY ABAÚJ IN THE 16TH-19TH CENTURIES Founded in 1547, the tailors' guild {Schneiderzunft) of Kassa (Kaschau/Kosice, Slovakia) remained one of the leading craft associations of Upper Hungary and the north-eastern region. As a member of the Pentapolis, an association of various towns, the bye-laws of the tailors' guild of Kassa served as a model for many guilds active in markét towns throughout Abaúj and Zemplén counties in the 16th-18th centuries. The first tailors' guild in the markét town of Szepsi in County Abaúj was founded around 1560-1570; the tailors working in the mining towns of Jászó and Mecenzéf too förmed their associations. Several tailors of Kassa became members of the town's assembly and the town council, the leading administrative body. The tailors' guild was entrusted with the defence of one of the round bastions in the town's fortification system, meaning that they alsó participated in the town's defence if the need arose. The apprentices (Geselle) förmed a separate association in the Kassa guild. They were directed by a master, but on the testimony of their bye-laws drawn up in 1570 in Hungárián, they alsó had their own elected leaders. Specialisation in the tailor's craft began in the 17

lh century: the cloth cutters (Tuchscherer) förmed their own guild, while the tailors working for fairs and producing ready-made clothes became separate from the tailors producing clothing from fine imported félts in the tailors' guild. In the 18

th century, the socalled Germán tailors making clothing in the Germán style separated from the Hungárián tailors making noblemen's clothes and products according to the Hungárián taste; the latter förmed their own guild and catered to the Hungárián population. There were alsó women tailors, who only made women's clothing. Many apprentices from the Kassa area and from farther afield studied in the Kassa guild. Modernisation and the transformation brought by capitalism eventually led to the demise of the guilds. An industrial society was förmed in Kassa. The appearance and spread of sewing machines led to the separation of ready-made clothing and hand-sewn apparel. An increasing number of Jewish tailors appeared among the tradesmen, and men's and women's tailors had their own, separate workshops. Éva Gyulai 216