Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)

TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig

method of cutting helped supplement the information gained from the diagram (Plate 13). Using the entire width of the fabric, the garment was cut lengthways. On the Sopron diagram the centre line of the left front was laid diagonally on the fabric. After defining the curve of the neck, the slant of the shoulder was drawn. The line of the shoulder formed an obtuse angle with the front, and accordingly was higher at the arm-hole than at the neck-the opposite state of affairs to that usually applying today. The arm-hole was straight, and the sides continued straight down, too. Triangle-shaped pieces added to looseness at the waist, in accordance with the shape of the trunk. The whole width of the material (55 cm) was used for the skirt. On the bottom, the missing curved segment was sewn on later. Below the waistline, there is a pocket sewn into the seam. On the line of the shoulder, three points can easily be observed : the intersection of the neck and shoulder-lines, the midpoint of the shoulder-line, and the intersection of the armhole and the shoulder-line. Based on the diagram, the centre of the circle in which the pattern was constructed can easily be found. It precisely coincides with the midpoint of the shoulder-line. Drawing an arc from this point, the bottom of the skirt can be defined. This way the left front can be made. Looking closely at the two front pieces, it becomes apparent that the right front can be calculated from the left. The same can also be gathered from the Sopron pattern. The centre of the right front is delineated by the buttons. The slanted straight line drawn from the last button to the lower corner of the dolman gives the angle of the so-called "csákó-cut".

29 This way, the right front overlaps the left. Turkish

30 and Polish

31 patterns use the same type of cut. Cutting the back was also carried out using the available examples. In this way the simple method of the seventeenthcentury tailors came to light. Knowing this, any kind of coat could be cut. The entire width of the fabric was used, the edge of the fabric (with green and white stripes) was visible on both sides. Unlike the case of the front, the shoulder-line is perpendicular to the edge of the material. The neckline is rounded and the sleeves are cut straight. The triangular pieces, which added fullness to the coat, were sewn to the sides, just as when the front was prepared. On the bottom, the skirt was made baggier as well. The back is as long as the front, the length equals the radius of the circle used to construct the pattern. However, here the curve was not drawn; the distance was measured on the perpendicular line drawn to the midpoint of the shoulder lines and onto the centre line of the back. Because of the curve of the neck, the bottom of the coat is curved, too. Adjusted to the arm-hole, the sleeves of the dolman are cut straight. Following the shape of the arms, they narrow down in a rounded manner. The slits under the elbows fasten with hooks. Trapeziumshaped flaps or, as Péter Apor has aptly called them, "dogs' ears" cover the hands.

32 The dolman has a narrow upright collar. Its whole length is lined with linen. On the front, a narrow strip and, on the back, a wider strip of silk fold over this lining. The sleeves are lined with silk to a point halfway along the forearm (Plate 14).

33 The size, tailoring and lining of five of the six Esterházy dolmans resemble those of the one just described. The fabrics used for lining three of the lace-covered dolmans are the same also. The black velvet dolman is noticeably larger. The way it was tailored is similar to that of the others, although there are minor differences. On the sides the triangular pieces of material adding looseness to the coat have been cut in one piece with the sides. The flaps on the sleeves are wide and semi-circular. The dolman has an upright collar, one that is higher than the collars of the others: this measures roughly 8 cm at the back of the neck. Looking for analogies and an explana-