Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)

TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig

tion, I have constructed diagrams of dolmans in the Hungarian National Museum. Our single seventeenth-century dolman once belonged to the Bánffy family.

34 This dolman is of a mauve colour; like the black one, it is made of relief velvet patterned with large, symmetrical flowers. It fastens with pierced amethyst buttons. The eggshell white silk lining, which has the same pattern as the velvet lining, enhances its splendour. The cut is identical to the cut of the black dolman from the Esterházy Treasury. The National Museum possesses one silk and two felt dolmans for children, made in the sixteenth century. They are in fairly good condition, and taking measurements and drawing their patterns was not difficult. The Museum also has two dolmans dating from the beginning of the eighteenth century. Once the patterns were drawn, it immediately became apparent that there were differences in the tailoring of dolmans made in the sixteenth century and those made in the eighteenth century. With these differences in mind, a comparison can be made between the dolmans. The cut of the boy's dolman from Sárospatak differs from the Esterházy and Bánffy dolmans in only one detail. (Its silk fabric has turned brownish.) It is very interesting that the tailor, despite of the small size of the garment, used triangular pieces of material to add to its girth. Just as in the case of the men's dolmans, the left front is laid out along the edge of the fabric. The cut of the back is also different: in all the cases discussed so far the cut of the back was straight; this boy's dolman tapers down at the bottom (The width at the back is 33 cm, at the bottom it is 19.5 cm.)

35 The dark green, felt dolman from Sárospatak differs in yet another aspect from the child's dolman.

36 The back is similarly tapered, but the front is 5 cm longer. Large circular shapes, assembled of sections formed with tapering stitches, have been attached to the front. The sides are loose and "fan-shaped", similarly to the dolmans found in graves at Gyulafehérvár. The buttoning is also similar: a cord which runs along under the felt is pulled out onto the front, thus forming the loops. The collar is narrow at the front and high at the back of the neck.

37 The original owners of all the eighteenth-century dolmans presently owned by the Hungarian National Museum are known. The silk dolman, made of a fabric with a bizarre pattern and decorated with silver strands and orange and light-blue silk thread, belonged to Baron István Orczy (1669-1749), captain of the Jazygians and Cumans.

38 On the basis of its material and its tailoring, we can conclude that it was made later than the Esterházy dolmans, probably in the first years of the eighteenth century.

39 Its appearance is very different to that of the previous ones. The waist is longer and it is tapered more sharply. This was achieved by lowering the waistline and by leaving out the extra triangular pieces of material. The skirt was made wider and shorter, thus the angle of the "csákó cut" has become shorter. In spite of the different details, the system of cutting used was similar to that employed in the seventeenth century. The centre of the subsidiary circle is at the mid-point of the shoulder, while the radius determines the length of the back. The cuffs are folded back, which is a new feature. The double curve of the cuff ends in a point, and is covered with green velvet. The earliest known example of a dolman with tailored shoulder and sewn-in sleeves was worn by György Labsánszky, who died on March 8, 1705 at the age of twenty-five. He was buried in the crypt of the Monastery of St John the Baptist in FelsőElefánt.

40 It is made of silk, which has turned brown by now. Like the dolman described before, the trunk of this garment is also tapered, and its cuffs fold back. However, not all of the changes can be seen at a glance. Retaining some typical feature of the traditional method, the way of con-