William Penn Life, 2010 (45. évfolyam, 1-12. szám)
2010-04-01 / 4. szám
m i Tibor's Take with Tibor Check, Jr. It's a matter of choice WITH ALL DUE RESPECT to Master Chefs Béla, Vilmos and Szathmary, and the many anonymous preparers of Magyar gastronomical specialties, do I present the following observations. I have enjoyed hundreds of plates of Chicken Paprikás. To be truthful, some have been wonderful, while others have been real Puli kutyás. Even at my own home we have quality control issues. As a rule, our family gets to enjoy the poultry-based delight about once every three weeks. Depending on either my mother's or sister's time and energy levels, we can expect sheer taste ecstasy or a less-than-memorable dining experience. These same sentiments occur at Hungarian restaurants and fraternal gatherings. I can go on to say, that even at a single event, you can have a great plate of paprikás, and then follow up with a second helping that makes you wonder if the cooks left and forgot to give the correct recipe for the remaining group of workers to follow. There are so many preparation variables when making a successful meal of the preferred dish of the Cseh Család. The correct type of chicken, flour, paprika and onions, to name just a few of the essential ingredients, are necessary for a delectable presentation. Timing and the correct utilization of heat when cooking the chicken can give the cook the best or worst case scenario when establishing a flavorful "Kash!" (our family's slang word for the sauce /gravy). I have seen the ill- or non-use of paprika more than I would like to remember. Every good Magyar knows that the heart and soul of high-quality Chicken Paprikás is the PAPRIKA! Unfortunately, many so Did you know they're Hungarian? Did you know that Jerry Seinfeld and the late Rodney Dangerfield had mothers that were Hungarian born? Although both comedians are a generation apart in age, they share several personal commonalities. Both had rocky relationships with their mothers, both were from the New York City area and both worked at other careers before hitting it big in stand-up comedy. called Magyar cooks follow the rationale that cheaper is better. Instead of ordering quality paprika from such sources as Magyar Marketing, many of our Frugal Magyar Gourmets prefer to purchase a one-pound canister for 75 cents at their local Sándor's Super Saver Store. The only culinary link between the excellent quality Szeged Paprika and the bargain basement imposter is the name on the label, PAPRIKA! If the paprika doesn't say "made in Hungary," throw it away and spend a few extra forints for the real stuff. Speaking of paprika, I recall several well-intentioned cooking advisors telling me that paprika is merely a garnish used for coloring or for accenting such dishes as sour cream cucumbers (Uborkasaláta kaporral). I've seen my mom generously use paprika when mixing the roux to produce the luscious sauce. Liberal doses of paprika not only give the dish a flamboyant red coloring but that unique taste. I have learned through my own culinary experimentation that only by mixing enough paprika into the heated fat and slightly browned onions can you create the chemical reaction that releases the complex molecules of hidden flavors. If there is not enough or the wrong type of paprika, your hard work and labor will result in a dismal presentation. My family has dozens of Magyar traditions. We do a lot of cultural things that even first generation families have abandoned. As with the use of paprika, we are above the norm as well. Each year we use paprika by the pound, not just by mere ounces. My Mom puts paprika on the priority shopping list when our cupboard shows that we have less than half of a pound. All cooks utilize their own preferred amounts of garlic, tomato, green pepper, black pepper, salt, oil and flour. What you add to the dish is of your own prerogative. Another key to success is using fresh quality ingredients. When it comes to Hungarian cooking, each family has its own idiosyncrasies in preparation. That's why there are so few Hungarian restaurants out there. Nobody prepares any Hungarian dish like their dear mom or Aunt Olga. If you go to a gathering featuring Magyar food, you can count on someone negatively comparing what is being consumed there to that of long ago. I have yet to hear some say, "this is better than my mom's," or "this tastes just like Nagymama's!" The next time you go to a Hungarian event such as a church or cultural gathering, remember more than likely those cooks and servers are volunteers. Give them some slack; it's tough work! I hear many more 8 William Penn Life, April 2010
