Fazekas Éva: A fekete leves, a kávéfőzés története, időszaki kiállítás, 2010. április 23 - 2010. október 25, a Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendéglátóipari Múzeum, a Magyar Műszaki és Közlekedési Múzeum és a Fazekas & Kimmel Gyűjtemény közös időszaki kiállítása (Budapest, Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendéglátóipari Múzeum, 2010)
Noémi Saly: FROM COFFEE "CHERRIES" TO THE "BLACK SOUP"
lust the opposite happened to coffee: after the Tlirks had been driven out, aversion soon slackened, and - as soon as from the 1700s - our ancestors accepted coffee and coffee-houses as western fashion which, however, had not lost their Oriental appearance for a long time. On the territories occupied by the Turks a good many coffee-houses seemed to be in operation, even when sultan Murád IV personally paced the streets of Stambul at the head of his henchmen in order to massacre coffee drinkers and smokers. After his death (1640) coffeehouses soon revived, and in Buda they even had never ceased to exist. Murad's contemporary, \fydsúdy Mehmed showed his enthusiasm, in his poem Praise of Buda Castle, as follows: "Buda Castle is as beautiful as 1 stambul itself, 1—1 If you go to a coffee-house, the company of poets l-l lis sages are like the parrots of sweet words, And its poets like nightingales..." As to our knowledge today, this text is the first to report on Buda's coffee-houses. Poets and Sages here, too? Yes, but Turks. Hungarians - sons of Bacchus - did not make friends, during the occupation, even with the thought of coffee. There are but sporadic mentions: István Vitnyédi, e. g. asked Miklós Zrinyi in a letter to send him coffee. In Anna Bornemissza's economic diary an entry bears witness to the expensive goods: " 1681. 27 )anuarii István Apor.. .bought coffee for four florins, fl. 4." In the 62 inventories of estate of Pest after the occupation as investigated by Dezső Dümmerth there is but a single coffee cup in civil possession. The tiny brass cup belonged to cobbler master Wittmayer - we do not know, of course, if he had used it or it stood on the shelf as ornament only. In a Pozsony inventory of 1696 six coffee cups were mentioned. From the same year a written document survived about the first - Serbian coffee-maker, who prepared the black "nectar" in Szentendre no more for the Turks but for his fellow countrymen. "...buy him coffee, get him used to it" From the first decade of the 18 t h century the fashion keeps spreading faster and faster. The aristocrats and officers visiting Vienna regularly, and the students attending universities abroad bring it from the west, the goods continue to be brought by Balkan merchants, with the slackening of the fights in safer conditions - and increasing batches - from the east. Thus two worlds met in Hungarian coffee culture. In the north-west only rich people could afford coffee. The expensive drink was consumed in elegant drawing rooms, gold and silver pots and tiny spoons as well as fine porcelains tinkled on the trays carried by servants in liveries. Coffeehouses tried to imitate these beautiful ceremonies: if not silver, it was nickel silver, if not porcelain, it was adorned faience, if not livery and silk jabot, it was tailcoat and tie. .. From the other side, the Balkans, came coffee itself, and the Turkish way of preparing coffee (and very soon the expertise of the Italian masters of coffee making) - and there came the free atmosphere of the Arabic-Turkish-Italian coffee houses, the democracy that could be no more expelled from Pest and Buda. Trade boomed too: in summer 1707, among the items of a spice consignment sent to the court of Ferenc Rákóczi II we may read not only of pepper, ginger and 400 fresh lemons but also of 29 pounds of coffee - Rákóczi himself 77