Fazekas Éva: A fekete leves, a kávéfőzés története, időszaki kiállítás, 2010. április 23 - 2010. október 25, a Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendéglátóipari Múzeum, a Magyar Műszaki és Közlekedési Múzeum és a Fazekas & Kimmel Gyűjtemény közös időszaki kiállítása (Budapest, Magyar Kereskedelmi és Vendéglátóipari Múzeum, 2010)
Noémi Saly: FROM COFFEE "CHERRIES" TO THE "BLACK SOUP"
was so fond of the latter that the reinforcement had to be sent after him to Munkács, to the camp of his army. As soon as in 1711 examples can be found that coffee is supported against wine. Miklós Bethlen writes to his wife Julia Rhédey from Vienna (after the death of their elder son, worrying for the younger one): "Please, get 1 ózsefat home, too, used to beer and coffee-, now I have sent him a sugar-loaf; I pray to you, for God's sake buy him coffee, get him used to it, you had better drink some yourself, even if unwillingly-, I am afraid, he will become a bad drunkard, and will soon follow Mihály Bethlen and the rest of his brothers addicted to drink. .." Thus sugar had to be sent from Vienna, however, the instruction "buy him coffee" shows that in 1711 it was easy to buy coffee in Transylvania, and if there was a supply, there had to be a demand, too. In the chapter on S pices of the 1714 inventory of goods subject to tax payment of one thirtieth "coffee" can be found, indeed, among "sugar can", soft "cane honey" (sugar) from TUrkey and other delicacies. Its presence in wholesale trade doubtlessly indicates the increase of consumption. Coffee, the accessories of coffee consumption and the "crystallization" of the Hungarian name of the coffeehouse can be followed in contemporary letters, documents of peregrination and diaries. The word coffee was written in a Hungarian literary work (in Turkish characters) for the first time by Miklós Zrinyi ( 1645) in his epos "The peril of Sziget", canto 3, strophes 26 and 29: Scander, if you want to, we may sleep together, And forge old words beside a hot coffee-, I-] The two of them there sat down on a cushion, And were talking of many things among themselves, Sipping at coffee from small finjans. .. According to the Historical-Etymological Dictionary of the Hungarian Language the word coffe house was written down in Hungarian for the first time in 1709, also in relation to Turks. On the other hand, among his London expenses eighteen-year-old Pál Teleki recorded on May 29, 1697: 0-0-10 (i.e. ten pence) at Royal Kofi House. The young man obviously hesitates, how the names of coffee and coffee house should be written: С ofi, Coffi, Cofe, С ophe, Kofi, К ofe, Kafe? And, similarly: С ophe H az, Kafe H az, С ofi H az, Kofi Haz, kofi H az, Cophi H az, Kofi Ház? - i. e. neither was part of his native vocabulary: with the drink as well as with the institution he got acquainted in Western Europe. That he became fond of it, is sure, as he sent home cups, wrapped carefully among straw. We may wonder, how many of them stood the journey on the jolting cart from the Netherlands to Transylvania? But by the time their "master" got home, he found, perhaps, even a coffee house... What about those, who could not afford it ? We do not have to insist on it any more that coffee roasting and making are a real science, requiring serious expertise. And although housewives tried to learn its ruses in a determined way, they soon admitted that - in order to be on the safe side - it was worth turning to an expert. Itinerant vendors of coffee, coffee-women at markets, small coffee stalls and elegant cafés provided the "nectar", according to everybody's purse and leisure time. The poorest were sipping at the dilute liquid prepared of the coffee grounds, the sediment extracted for the second time, and from the mid19 t h century on coffee prepared of various substitutes such as malt, chicory, figs, roasted cereal grains and lupine. The drinks prepared of these taste, more or less, good but, of course, do not contain any caffeine, therefore children may safely consume them. 78
