Endrei Walter szerk.: Textilipari Múzeum Évkönyve 8. 1995 (Budapest, 1995)

Katalin E. Nagy: Das Grundgewebe des ungarischen Krönungsmantels (Eine Gewebeanalyse)

[15] Krishna Riboud: A Newly Excavated Cagtan from the Northern Caucasus. Textile Museum Journal. 1976. S. 21-42. [16] Emőke László: a.a. O.S. 2. [17] R. Grönwoldt: Webereien und Stickereien des Mittelalters. Kestner Museum Hannover 1964. S. 19. [18] W. F. Volbach: I Tessuti del Museo Sacro Vaticano. Cittá del Vaticano 1942. T. 101 undT. 102. [19] Sakrale Gewänder des Mittelalters. München 1955. (Sigrid MüllerChristensen) Kat. Nr. 8. [20] R. Grönwoldt: a.a.O. Kat. Nr. 2. [21] Den Textilrestauratoren des Nürnberger Nationalmuseums Erika Weiland und Annaliese Streiter möchte ich auf diesem Wege meinen persönlichen Dank dafür aussprechen, dass sie mir die Gewebeanalyse der Hl. Ulrich Kasel freundlicherweise zur Verfügung gestellt haben. [22] Mechthild Flury-Lemberg: Textil Conservation and Research. AbeggStiftungBern 1988. S. 161. Summary The bell-shaped chasuble transformed into the coronation mantle has been repaired constantly during the past cenruries, it consists today of three clothlayers, sewn together with close stitches. The base fabric of the mantle, the one carrying the embroidery (I. cloth-layer) is a Samit woven with two set of wefts. The binding warp binds in a 1/2 S twill-weave construction on the face of the cloth. The base is green, the pattern is red silk. Its date of preparation is based on the construction of the pattern, on the representation of art, on the analogies and naturally on the date of the donation of the mantle, the first quarter of the XI. century. The first substantial restoration could have been performed between 1600 and 1650, the dating of the restoration is given by the new supporting patterned silk weave (II. cloth-layer). Its weaving technique is Lampasett, the base is woven with atlas-weave construction, with set of yarns and the warp is shown on the face of the cloth. The pattern has a twill-weave construction and here the weft is shown on the face of the cloth. Its warp yarn is dark purple, one of the weft yarns of the cloth is a light green silk, the other a light lilac silk. The cloth was woven in Italy, in the first third part of the XVII. century. The other substantial restoration could have been performed around 1848. Under the first two cloth-layers another layer, an unpatterned taft of bordeaus color has been placed (III. cloth-layer), the back of which is densely covered with the restoring stitches. Of the third restoration we have written data, from the inventory prepared by the keepers of the crown. On occasion