Weiner Mihályné szerk.: Az Iparművészeti Múzeum Évkönyvei 12. (Budapest, 1970)

IPARMŰVÉSZETI MÚZEUM — MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS - Egyed, Edit: On a Textile from the Safavid Period

These fine doubly woven brocades with figurai representations were made at the Iranian Yazd according to the results of examinations 27 . Their frequency of thread :as well as the manifold weaving technic applied in the very same textile (fig. 5.) are admired by those using modern technic. We shall dare to express our supposition that the place of production of "Ohe dolman in our collection is Yazd and it can be dated to the second half of the 16th century and that the design of the fabric may have been made by an artist of Ghiyas' group. This supposition is based first of all on the technic of the gold brocade and its analogies, then on the representations of animals and plants characteristic of Persian territory (fig. 6.). In some words mention is to be made of the shield shaped applications attached to the sleeves (fig. 7.). The surface of this rep-weave stuff of white silk is completely covered with blooming sprays, stylized palmettes and caly­cular flowers. On one of the spray there sits a small bird looking aside. The place of production of the textile with likewise exceptionally fine design and colouring can be placed also in Iran. On account of its ornamentations it can be dated to a somewhat later period than the above dolman. Its fine execution and rieh design very well suits the gold brocade coat. Lastly it can be stated that our Museum is in the possession of an out­standing piece of the golden age of the Persian textile art, that beside the uniqueness of its woven fabric the dolman has also increased significantly our relics of the history of costume, and that it has been one of the most out­standing new acquisitions of our Museum for the last ten years. 27 Ackermann, Ph.: Weaving technices (Pope: Survey ... p. 2204.1.

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