Marisia - Maros Megyei Múzeum Évkönyve 32/2. (2012)
Articles
206 К. A.Baráth On the wall painting dated to the 14th century in Keszthely representing Saint Elisabeth (Marosi 1987, 598) and in Velemér with the figure of Saint Ladislaus (Pi. l/l)datedto 1377-1378 (Marosi 1989) round, disk-like shaped buckles can be noticed. Saint Ladislaus is wearing his cloak held together asymmetrically on his left shoulder, while Saint Elisabeth is wearing a cape with its wings attached under her neck. In the archaeological material these different sized round buckles worn on the chest appear Europe-wide beginning with the 13th century. Occasionally, in graves they are found in situ on the chest and they probably served for holding together the neck-decollate of the cloak (Pálóczi 1989,126). These round buckles are scarce in the 14th century; usually these are located close to the pelvis and can be reconstructed as belt buckles (Hatházi 1985, 659). The reason of this phenomenon lies in the Cumanian characteristics of the unearthed materials. While most of the depicted costume accessories like belt buckles, beads, etc. have Cumanian analogies in the archaeological material - made in local gothic workshops -, in the case of cloak buckles one has to face the lack of these objects in Cumanian grave finds. Several researchers consider that Cumans clamped their wide caftan on the shoulder and hips by ligaments and these ligaments were covered by metal decoration. Those embossings found around the chest area might fill this part (Zsánbéki 1983, 107). Nonetheless, the capes and cloaks from mural paintings are not representing the Cumanian costume (Pálóczi 1989, 127). The age of costume buckles transformed from embossings from the Kelebia silver treasure hidden around the middle of the 14th century is debated (PI. 2/1). According to Tóth (1972, 219) some pieces of the treasure were made in the 13th century, while Zsámbéki (1983, 110) considers these accessories created in the early 14lh century. The chronology of the silver buckle (PI. 2/1) from the Kiskunhalas-Fefiértó treasure also raises debates (Parádi 1990, 77). Since the most accepted date for the treasure is the beginning of the 14th century it could be an authentic analogy of the buckles depicted in Keszthely and Velemér. Fig. 1. Map of mural paintings depicting cloak jewels of the Angevin Period.
