Marisia - Maros Megyei Múzeum Évkönyve 32/2. (2012)
Articles
Cloak Jewels on Transylvanian and Hungarian Mural Paintings of the Angevin Period 207 The frame of this type of buckle is not always roundshaped and there are several shape variations known. One of these variants is the square buckle which appears only once on wall paintings from the Angevin Period, on the fur edged cloak of Saint Elisabeth and Saint Dorothy (Pi. 1/2-3), on the two winger quadrangle from the fresco on the northern wall in the Protestant church at Porumbenii Mari, dated to the middle of the 14th century (Dávid 1981, 198-199; Lángi-Mihály 2002, 80). There are only a few examples of large sized quadrangular buckles even amongst belt buckles. The quasi quadrangular belt buckle from the cemetery of Perkáta (Pl. 2/4) shows similarities in shape with the one represented on the fresco from Porumbenii Mari (Hatházi 1985, 659). A large belt buckle was found also Fig'2' SculPture of a Queen trom the Musée des Augustine, Toulouse in the cemetery of Nagytálya (Pl. 2/3), however according to (after Kovács 1998). Kovács (1973, 139) this supposed to be dated rather to the 15th century. The jewel represented on Saint Dorothy might be a quadrangular plate embossing or paired embossing which served for stitching the string of the cloak throughout it, and it is analogous to the one from the statue of the queen in the Musée des Augustine in Toulouse (Fig. 2). The buckle on the figure of Saint Dorothy might be the quadrangular variant of the paired cloakjewels defined by Kovács (1998, fig. 147). It seems to have a compact body rather than lace, decorated by three-three bubble-like ornaments alongside. The oblong decorative embossings are far not that popular as the round shaped or the square ones. Such artefacts are mentioned from the cemetery in Kecskemét (Szabó 1938, 50-51, fig. 248-249) (PI. 2/5); while an oblong embossing made of silver was found in the treasure of Kiskunhalas-Bodoglárpuszta (Oberschall 1945,17). While their morphology is obviously similar, the size of the unearthed objects is much smaller than the ones represented on the mural paintings. The closest analogy of the depicted piece can be seen on the negative of the trussell from Versec (PI. 2/6), which represents an oblong shaped embossing with bubble-like ornaments (Oberschall 1945, 16). The wall paintings in Laskod (Pi. 1/4) and Lónya (Pl. 1/5) dated to the beginning of the 14th century illustrate nearly the same type of cloakjewels (Jékely-Lángi 2009, 138, 186). The buckles are large, disc-shaped, with six spokes, in Laskod Saint Ladislaus wears it on his right shoulder while in Lónya the Sheltering-cloak Madonna wears it in the middle of her costume. The spokes branch irregularly from an inside rounded element. The illustrations probably reproduce the round shaped or polygonal jewels with pin on their back-side. Their close analogy is the buckle kept in the treasury of the Cathedral in Split, while their distant relatives are a wheel shaped buckle and a polygonal jewel (Pi. 2/7-8) from the collection of the Hungarian National Museumwhich were made at the end of the 13th or maybe at the beginning of the 14th century (Kovács 1998, 229). These wheel shaped buckles were probably developed from star shaped pieces with lilies on the end of their branches (Odor 1998, 128). In time those lilied endings had become closer and closer, and finally resulted in the round-shape, while the shafts of the star transformed to spokes. In the archaeological material similar phenomenon can be observed in the case of the other types of buckles. In Hungary, such buckles were not found on the chest of the body, but a couple of belt buckles showing this shape are also known. In the area of Kecskemét (PI. 2/9-10) several ‘transition type buckles - between the star-shaped artefacts and wheel shaped buckles - were found (Szabó
