Begovácz Rózsa – Burján István – Vándor Andrea: Folk Art in Baranya County (Pécs, 2008)
Costumes
finally black boots came into general use. Black or green embroidered slippers and shoes were also worn. Stockings were made of black wool, later colourful protruding knots were knitted in them. Reformed Hungarian women from around Szigetvár had a more colourful costume than women in the Ormánság. A peculiar piece of garment in the 19 t h century was the kerchief for the head and the neck, embroidered with white weaving yarn on white cambric. It was used only until the turn of the century, exclusively as a part of the church garment when receiving the sacrament. On Good Friday everybody went to church in deep mourning, that is, in white. They wore a white shawl, a white head kerchief and a white bikla or kebél (skirt). A peculiar piece of the region was called hátasbikla, which was a skirt sewn together with the waistcoat. This puritan piece was replaced by industrial products, silk shawls with roses, following the strengthening of the bourgeoisie in the end of the century. Because of this change of fashion white embroidered kerchiefs got a role only when there was a dead person in the house. These formerly valued kerchiefs were used to cover the mirror. On greater festivals they covered their shoulders with a bright coloured, mostly red silk shawl with rose patterns. They put a coil on their heads which was made of decorative artificial flowers and beads, and a tulle kerchief was tied over it when going to church. The fabric of womens' shirts was a coarser homespun, had setin sleeves, patches on the shoulders, closely pleated on the shoulders and on the cuffs. The cuffs were embroidered white, the front of the shirt was open. The fronts and the backs of the shirt made in the new style were made of a homespun, the sleeves were made of a finer cambric or tulle. The sleeves were wide, shirred at the elbow. From the turn of the century women began to wear dark, patterned silk skirts and aprons as a result of the impact of garments of the bourgeoisie. The fabric and the cut of mens' shirts is similar to those of old-style womens's shirts, though in most cases they have collars, and they are embroidered white both on the cuffs and on the breast. Reformed Hungarians in the Drávaszög who were settled down to self-sufficiency made clothes themselves from flax, hemp, leather and wool, or have them made by an artisan in the village before the spread of industrial products. By the second 58
