Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 28. (Budapest, 2012)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury

the coat was adorned with laces. Overcoats with laces are also mentioned in archival sources: "a summer coat sewn from broadcloth, trimmed with a broad gold lace all around", "a coat of silk fabric adorned with broad gold and silver lace and lined with fox fur."

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4 An early 17th century mente in the collection

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5 is adorned with the same kind of lace as the latter two lace-decorated dolmans. (fig. 11) The fabric was once a light red silk cloth, now it is faded to a yellowish hue, with a bizarre pattern. It is hard to make out the large floral lace pattern of loose structure similar to ornamental passementerie as the animated silk ground is also interwoven with gold and silver threads. The lace technique suggests that it was applied to the coat later, sometime in the middle or second half of the 17th century. It trims the edges, neckline, front, bottom, and sleeve ends of the coat; on the shoulders it is spread out like a collar and it also frames the pocket opening. Corners are created by simply folding the lace. The spacing of the lace harmoniously adjusts to the way how the coat was worn. When thrown over the shoulders or the hands were stuck through 12. Upper coat with corrals, full front 64