Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 28. (Budapest, 2012)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Metallic Thread Lace Ornaments on the Textiles of the Esterházy Treasury

the opening at the elbows, the sleeves reached down to the bottom of the coat, exposing the rich decoration. When the hands were slipped through the sleeves and the sleeve ends were pulled up to the wrists, the pattern was also visible. For embroideries the latter way of wearing was customary, as László Esterházy's green coat of around 1740

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6 also demonstrates. The mente coat from Prince Pál Esterházy's garderobe

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7 is a valuable piece of the collection. Similarly to the previous garment, its lace is applied to give accent to the edges, the sleeves, the pockets and hip insets in the back in three rows. (figs. 12-13) There is a particularly great emphasis on the bottom of the back part. The pattern is the metallic thread version of the Flemish bobbin lace or Dutch lace. The source of the pattern is that of Italian silk fabrics of the 1660s, which later became the favourite lace of the Dutch. It is instructive to compare the chrysanthemum motifs of the metal and linen thread laces and their structure held together by tiny tendrils and leaves, (figs. 14-15) What in the linen lace is made with linen stitch is formed by gimps and small wheatears in the metal lace. The back13. Upper coat with corrals, full hack 65