Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 26. (Budapest, 2008)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Kerchiefs Adorned with Bobbin Lace Pendants from the Second Half of the 17* and First Half of the 18th Century

the corners of kerchiefs were heightened with pompons - "buttons" - and tassels, too. There are some references to fringed ker­chiefs also in archival sources, e.g. "an embroidered Turkish gold kerchief with silk fringes" (1627), "two fringed kerchiefs" (1651).' These pompons are known in western wear as well, e.g. in Guilliam Van Meynem's Portrait of a lady (early 17 th c.) 8 and Baptist procession (mid-17 th a). Works from histori­cal Hungary include Portrait of a young woman from the Szepesség (17 ,h c.) and the engraving entitled Noblewomen and maiden from Kolozsvár (1617). 9 Another type of ornament was the pom­pon or "button" hanging from two corners of a kerchief. Such decoration is shown in 1. Éva Forgách, wife of István Csáky (1638), oil on canvas 2. Krisztina Nyáry, wife of Miklós Esterházy (1625), engraving from Trophaeum Dornas Esterházy anae, Vienna, 1700 the portraits of Zsófia Illésházy (1589), Krisztina Nyáry, the wife of Miklós Ester­házy (1625) (ill. 2) and Zsuzsanna Károlyi (1625). 10 Since no such kerchief survives, a similarly decorated handkerchief for betrothal" is used to envision their making (ill. 3). From the passementerie around the handkerchief richly embroidered in metal and silk thread, silk pompons and tiny acorns made like braid and adorned with pearls are hanging. The phrase "a handker­chief with gold at its two ends" (1607) in a dotal list 12 must refer to such buttons made from gold thread. In Hungary, several guilds of button- and passementerie makers were active from the 16 th century. Their products,

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