Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)

TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig

Guild of Tailors in Nagyszombat. 1636. Kit. 23. Pattern Book of Nagyszeben, 1708. Museum of Applied Arts, Documentation Department. Kit. 24. 17 Museum of Applied Arts, Inventory Ref. No. : 51.1299. 18 Museum of Applied Arts, Documentation Department. Kit. 55. 19 Sopron, Local History Collection. K.89.1. 20 István Kállay's version. 21 Museum of Applied Arts, Inventory Ref. No. : 52.2767. Photograph: Documentation Department: Fit. 19.547/a-b. 22 Museum of Applied Arts, Inventory Ref. No. : 52.2379. The following is said in the 1725, inventory of the Esterházy Treasury: "Alamarium Sub Nro. 79 et 80 Nro. ILA body-coloured velvet dolman embroidered with gold and silver yarn, pearls, decorated with diamonds and fourteen pairs of hooks." This dolman, which was described as "body-coloured" in 1725, was said to be "brickred" in 1927. (Inventory of the Collections of the Hungarian Museum of Applied Arts. Budapest, 1927. p. 47.) Höllrigl, J. : Régi magyar ruhák (Old Hungarian Costumes). Budapest, 1944. p. 7 describes the same dolman as yellowish-red. These different reports of the colours may originate in the use of colours in heraldry, in which the human body was coloured light "brick-red". Museum of Applied Arts, Documentation Department Kit. 236 (1957). 23 The analogy of the lining is in the Przemyst Museum Ziemi. Taszycka, M. : Wloskie jedwabne tkaniny odziezowe w Polsche w pierwszej polowie XVII. wieku (Italian Silk Clothing Textiles in Poland during the First Half of the Seventeenth Century). Krakow, 1971. p. 61. Plate 15. 24 Museum of Applied Arts, Inventory Ref. No. : 52.2698. Analogy of its material: Markowsky

, B. : Europaische Seidengewebe des 13-18. Jahrhunderts. Cologne, 1976. Cat. No. 390 Inv. D. 647. 25 Museum of Applied Arts, Inventory Ref. No. :52

.2373.1. Its lining is fragmented. 26 Inventory Ref. No.: 52.2377. 27 Inventory Ref. No.: 52.2804.1. The 1725 Inventory says: "Almárium Sub Nris 79-80 Nro. 9. A red-satin dolman with gold and silver fur, eight pairs of silver-plated, gilded white enamel hooks, and on the two sleeves six pairs of hooks plated with silver." According to the catalogue of the 1891 Vienna exhibition on the history of costume (Masner, K.: Die Costüm-Ausstellung im K.K. Oesterreichischen Museum. Wien 1891, pp. 1, 3, 44. t), this garment was worn by Miklós Esterházy. The dolman is first mentioned in the consignation contract issued in 1923. The palatine was probably wearing it at his wedding. 28 Györffy István: A nagykun viselet a 18. században (Cuman Costumes in the Eighteenth Century). In: Népélet (Ethnographia) 1937. p. 121. At the time of recruiting, the high caps of the would-be soldiers were slit from the top to the bottom. The part which was thus dangling was called the csákó. 29 The front of most Turkish costumes had a straight cut. The slanted line was achieved by the addition of a triangle-shaped piece. Although no patterns of Turkish costumes are known to us, on the basis of pictures it can be ascertained that the bottoms of the caftans were straight. Roger, I. M. : Topkapi Saray Museum. Tokyo, 1980, 1986. Inv. Nro. 13/34, Inv. Nro. 13/40, Inv. Nro 13/ 38, Inv. Nro. 13/39, Inv. Nro. 13/830, Inv. Nro. 13/236, Inv. Nro. 13/525, Inv. Nro. 13/554, Inv. Nro. 13/807 (female dress). It was also similar in the eighteenth century, but the tailoring was emphasized by metallic braid, on women's and children's caftans: Inv. Nro. 13/819, Inv. Nro. 13/18, Inv. Nro. 13/816, Inv. Nro. 13/820. 30 The influence of the Hungarian style was also apparent in the seventeenh century. These similarities were superficial; neither the structure, nor the cut of the sleeves and the shoulders were the same. The coats of the Polish officials were longer from the waist down than the dolmans were. They reached below the knee, and were cut to fit very tightly at the waist; therefore, the pleats were more emphasized. Gutkowska-Rychlewska : ibid. p. 417, pp. 826829. 31 Apor, P. : Metamorphosis Transylvaniae. 32 This is probably a "félszer" dolman. It is mentioned in Szilágyi, S. (ed.): Erdélyi Országgyűlési Emlékek (Documents of the Transylvanian Diets). Volume II, p. 382. Radvánszky, B. : Magyar családélet és háztartás a XVI. és XVII. században. (Hungarian Households and Familiy Life in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries). Budapest, 1986, p. 58. 33 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No. 54.666. Höllrigl, J. : Magyar viselettörténeti kiállítás (An Exhibition on the History of Hungarian Costume). Budapest, 1938. pp. 16, 17.