Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)

TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig

The catalogue mentions that this dolman was owned by Count Miklós Bánffy, but does not indicate the person who wore it. Höllrigl, J. : Régi magyar ruhák (Old Hungarian Costume). Budapest, 1944. p. 8, Plate 7. He assumes that the matching mente came from the coffin of Governor Count György Bánffy. V. Ember, M. : Magyar viseletformák a XVI. és XVII. században (Hungarian Styles of Costume in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries). In : Folia Archeologica, XVIII. Budapest, 1966/67. p. 209, Plate 97. The last author does not connect the dolman to an individual, merely to the Bánffy family. 34 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No. : n.k. 35 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No.: 71.10.3. 36 Posta, Béla : A gyulafehérvári székesegyház sírleletei (The Contents of the Tombs of Gyulafehérvár Cathedral). In: Dolgozatok az Erdélyi Nemzeti Múzeum Érem- és Régiségtárából (Studies from the Coin and Antique Department of the National Museum of Transylvania). Kolozsvár, 1916. p. 104. 37 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No.: 71.10.1. 38 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No.: 1897.37. Höllrigl, J. : Régi magyar ruhák (Old Hungarian Costume). Budapest, 1944. p. 11, Plate 13. Höllrigl, y. : Magyar viselettörténeti kiállítás (An Exhibition on the History of Hungarian Costume). Budapest, 1938. p. 29, Plate VIII. In both works of Höllrigl and in the file of the Hungarian National Museum, the dates of István Orczy, captain of the Jazygians and Cumans, are 1719-1741. If István Orczy had really been born in 1719, the time when the dolman was made would have been the first third of the eighteenth century. However, the style of the dolman's tailoring contradicts this assumption. According to the literature dealing with the history of.the family, István Orczy was born in 1669: Siebmacher, y. : Wappenbuch. Nürnberg, 1893, Volume I, p. 464; Petrovay, György: A Báró és nemes Orczy család leszármazása és története (The History and Ancestry of the Orczy Family). Turul. V. 1887. 1. and V. 1887. 2. 6065. Magyar Nemzeti Zsebkönyvek (Hungarian Genealogical Handbooks) II. 1888. pp. 384-387. 39 At the beginning of the twentieth century, similar silk fabrics were thought by researchers to be Spanish. Sloman believed that, influenced by of the fantastic flora of the Indian and Javan printed canvases, they were made in India around 1700-1705. (Sloman, V. : Bizarre Design in Silks. Copenhagen, 1953. p. 260. Table XLV.) 40 Hungarian National Museum, Inventory Ref. No. 1894. 8. 1. 41 Portrait of Pál Esterházy at Fraknó. Photograph of the portrait in the Documentation Department of the Museum of Applied Arts, Fit. 19590. Apor, P. : ibid: "At that time all members of the Estates liked wearing their dolmans long and loose." Radvánszky contradicts him: ibid. p. 57. This réfutai is supported by Nagy, I. : Bethlen Gábor árszabása 1627. évből (The Price Regulations of Gábor Bethlen, from 1627). (Törvény Tár [Collection of Laws and Regulations], 1871. p. 218.) It talks about a "short dolman". 42 V, Ember, M. : XVI-XVII. századi ruhadarabok a sárospataki kriptákból (SixteenthSeventeenth-Century Clothes from the Crypts in Sárospatak). In: Folia Archeologica, XIX. Budapest, 1968. p. 152, Figs. 86-87. 43 Rogers, I. M. : ibid. Inventory No. 13/6, 13/ 38, 13/39, 13/830, 13/277. In the case of the Turkish caftans, the longer tailoring of the back was in fashion from the fifteenth century until the early seventeenth century. 44 V. Ember, M. : ibid. pp. 157-158, Fig. 96. 45 Gutkowska-Rychlewska : ibid. pp. 417, 826827. 46 Rogers, I. M. : ibid. p. 33. 47 Dihle, H. : Neue Forschungen zur spanischen Tracht. In: Waffen und Kostümkunde. Berlin, 1939, 5. p. 217. 48 Hungarian National Museum, Picture Collection of the History of Hungary, Inventory Ref. No. 5446 49 This is a kind of lace which was made without a net base and using the technique of bone-lace and passementerie. The widest span of the decoration on this dolman is 8 mm-10 mm. It was not made in a strip, but followed the pattern of the dolman. The motifs are held together by a quadruple pleating, this is how they were attached onto the dolman. They were fastened onto the material after the coat was ready. so Posta, Béla : Teleki Mihály sírja (The Grave of Mihály Teleki). In: Dolgozatok az Erdélyi Nemzeti Múzeum Régiségtárából (Studies from the Antiquities Department of the National Museum of Transylvania). Kolozsvár, 1913. Pótfüzet I. p. 24, Pictures 25, 26, 27, 29. S1 Hungarian National Museum, Gallery of Hungarian History, Inventory Ref. No. 11635