Vadas József (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 10. (Budapest, 1991)
TOMPOS Lilla: A dolmányszabás módosulása a 16. századtól a 18. századig
teenth century. 50 The etching, which shows the capture of István Thököly (1685), verifies the theory that the dolman was made at this later time, in the second half of the seventeenth century. Thököly, flanked by two Turks, is wearing a dolman which is very similar in the plasticity of its ornamentation and some other motifs. 51 The dolman made for István Orczy between 1700 and 1705 is representative of the period, when the drawing of the patterns remained the same as before. The cut of the sleeves of the dolman made for György Labsánszky in 1705 shows a Western European influence. The change in the method of pattern-drawing can be seen not only on this dolman, but also in the diagrams by Johannes Stöckhel (Linz, 1713) and Johannes M. Wolfsegger (Linz, 1724). By studying the patterns, not only have we become familiar with the way in which these garments were cut, but, taking into consideration the continuity and the changes, we have also been able to specify the time the dolmans were made. Similar methods can be used with other types of clothing. NOTES 1 Furm oder modelbüchlein. Augsburg, 1523. In : Ahegg, M. : Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles. Bern, 1978, pp. 18-20. 2 Petrascheck-Heim, I. : Figurinen nach alten Schnittbüchern. Kat. Linz, 1968, p. 41. 3 Juan de Alcega : Libro de Geometrica Practica y Traça. Madrid, 1589. facsimile with translation by J. Pain, C. Bainton, R.B. Carlton. Bedford, 1979. 4 Waugh, N. : The Cut of Men's Clothes 16601900. London, 1964. p. 35, p. 39, Fig. C. 5 Waugh, N. : ibid. p. 35, Plates on pages 40, 42. 6 Waugh, N. : ibid. p. 35, Plates on pages 40, 42. 7 Petrascheck-Heim : ibid. p. 19. 8 Petrascheck-Heim : ibid. pp. 56-57. "13. Ainem hern zu ainer mande. F. F. Stoff: karmansin thuch oder khäiseer. 36. Ainen ungerischen schuffizer rock. Stoff: burpperan odekhaiseer." 9 Petrascheck-Heim : ibid. p. 64. "23. Zu einem ungerischen mende (...) (mit) ein gesezet ermbl. Stoff: khärasin tuch. 24. Zu einem mende, der kehin nadt hatt der axl mit selbgewachsen ermln. 25. Zu einem mende mit zwickhln under dem arm. 26. Zu einem ungerüschen röckhl. Stoff: purprian, kharasin oder damaschg." 10 Petrascheck-Heim : Das schnittbuch aus Bregenz 1660. In: Sonderdruck aus den Jahrbuch des Vorarlberger Landesmuseumsverein. 1972. p. 130 Illustrations 47-48 11 Petrascheck-Heim, Ingeborg : Das "Rissbüchel" (Schnittbuch) aus Retz. (Ein Beitrag zur Wiener Kostümgeschichte "Wiener Geschits blatter" Sonderheft 2/1976 p. 53, No. 41. Der ungerische Tolman von Atles ist lang 1 2/3 Ehlen und with 3 2/3 Ehlen ; die Ermel sambt dem aufschlag 7/8 lang, in den Elbogen 1/4, vorn 1/8 Ehlen, yber die Achsel 1/3 breith ; die gewiegs 5/8 lang. Darzue kombt 9 Ehlen Atles, 2/3 breith. Die Weithen mäss 7/8, forn 1/8 Ybergeschlag. Zirckhl ist 3/8 hoch. No. 42. Der Ungerische Manto von Scharlach ist lang 1 1/2 Ehlen Theil und weith 3 2/3 Ehlen, yber die Achsel 1/3 breith, die Gewigs 5/8 lang; Darzue kombt Scharlach 4 Ehlen, ist 7/4 breith Die weithen 7/8, vorn 1/8 Yberschlag. Zirckhl ist 3/8 hoch. 12 Petrascheck-Heim : Figurinen nach alten Schnittbüchern. Linz, 1968, p. 71. 13 Petrascheck-Heim : ibid. 1968, p. 83. 14 Le Sien Benist Boullay : Le Tailleur Sincère. Paris, 1671, p. 13, Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris. 15 Gutkowska-Rychlewska, M. : História Ubiorow. Wroclaw-Warszawa-Krakow, 1968. p. 820, Fig. 4. Hungarian costume was popular at the court of Sigismund August. His Hungarian tailor, called Márton, made "vestes hussarinicae" and Italian garments for the king and the members of the court. The author states that the subica is a later version of "vestes hussarinicae". Based on the Kisszeben Pattern-Book, the longsleeved garment may be a jankó. (Museum of Applied Arts, Inv. Ref. No. 51. 1299) 16 Museum of Applied Arts, Documentation Department: Pattern-Book of the
