Szilágyi András (szerk.): Ars Decorativa 26. (Budapest, 2008)

Lilla ERDEI T.: Kerchiefs Adorned with Bobbin Lace Pendants from the Second Half of the 17* and First Half of the 18th Century

portraits of Anna Julianna Esterházy and Eva Thököly is very similar to the lace of this altar cloth: the central floral motif is a three-petalled tulip connected to the outer arch with spiders. The flower motif is produced by a simple but interesting bobbin technique: six working threads were divided into two and the twice three threads were used as a pair to give plasticity to the central motif. In the collection of the Museum this very rare technique is represented by a 17

th-18

th century bonnet of silver wire

26 from Upper Hungary and the "Ilona Zrínyi collar"

27 made in the State Lace-making School of Körmöcbánya in Upper Hungary (today Kremnica, Slovakia). The outer framing lace of open-twist silk thread gives the effect of a rustic dense cloth contrasted with the airy structure of the centerpiece. This closeness of the lace is typical of the lace inlays in the shirts, bonnets, aprons of Slovakians living in Upper Hungary.

28 Originally, the lace pendants probably belonged to the corners of a kerchief with aristocratic embroidery in silver wire fitting the groundwork of the lace. This type has the widest coverage in special literature: such kerchiefs with silver wire embroidery and lace from the Lutheran churches of Krivány and Eperjes were described by 9. Detail of altar cloth, Museum of Applied Arts, inv. no. 13978 10. Lace pendant, Museum of Applied Arts, inv. no. 13384 Kornél Divald, and from the parish of Dunaalmás by Béla Takács. Probably such a kerchief was donated to the church of Gyüd and when the cloth was worn, the lace pendants made of expensive threads (silver and silk) were removed and transferred to a cover of fitting colour. This change of func11. Detail of the altar cloth of the Calvinist church of Dunaalmás, source: Béla Takács: Református templomaink úrasztali térítői [Altar cloths in Hungarian Calvinist churches]. 1983, ill. 62