Verhovayak Lapja, 1937. január-június (20. évfolyam, 1-26. szám)

1937-03-27 / 13. szám

»»AGE 8

MARCH 27, 1937

Vfrhovayakjgpja

THE CITY OF GAY NIGHT

by WILLIAM B. POWELL

Seasoned travelers often Claim that to know a city you should stay three days or three weeks. I’ve done both in Budapest. Several years ago on my first visit there, I could only tarry three days-—but that short Stay made such a hit, when I returned to Budapest last Summer. I scheduled my time in advance so that I 'could have not less than three weeks. It wasn’t a bit too long—in fact, I’m thinking seriously of making jny next visit three months!

Realizing the, average tourist may not have more than a few days to allot to ’their capital, Hungary features “Spend three days in Budapest’’ on the posters (which you see in the window of travel agencies all over the world. If you haven’t already done so, one fine day you will probably succumb to the lure of those exotic posters. Just in case you do, here are the high tepots of Budapest, based on a rather thorough survey of the city.

First, where will you stay? I suggest one of the hotels on the Corso, that attractive promenade stretching along the banks of the Danube. Be sure to book a front room for that view' on the other side of the Buda Kills with their spectacular buildings, the river traffic, and its graceful birdges — it’s all something you’ll never forget. You can be comfortable and happy at any hotel such as the Dunapalota (Ritz), Hungária, Carleton, or Bristol. For a long stay '(and I’ve already made a mental reservation there) I suggest the peace and quiet of the Palatinus on Marguerite Island, that oasis of garden in the heart of the city. But on your first and shorter visit, by all means, stay at a hotel on the Corso.

. You’ve probably heard of the Corso many times. It’s _ unique. Stretched about the length of ten New York blocks, this broad walk (for pedestrians only) is solidly lined with hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars, and coffee bouses. No thought of ^business here —• all is for pleasure. And it’s gay as can be, especially from six o’clock to midnight. Music is wafed out on the night air from nearly every openfaced facade, music ranging from the best gypsy band in Flungary (which means in the world) that plays at the Hungária, to a strumming piano player at one of the many boites.

There’s no hurry on the Corso. People stroll leisurely up and down looking at those sipping the ubiquitous coffee and whipped cream or a glass of tokay. Others seated at tables, “give the once over” to the

smart looking women, immaculately dressed men, and officers well turned out in stunning uniforms, A pleasant thing about this Corso crowd — in fact it’s a feature which impresses you time and time again all over Budapest — is the injection of colorful peasants into a scene as sophisticated as any capital in Europe. The Hungarian peasants are very appealing and their costumes are as decorative as if they were in a Broadway show. Even in the city, they seem as simple and unconcerned as if they were miles away in their native villages.

Probably the second most important part of your life in Budapest will be the business of wining and dining. You -see, this city makes a great thing of restaurant life. It seems to me half your time is spent at a table. The problem of where to go for lunch, tea. dinner, and supper is a big one in Budapest for the simple reason there is such a large selection — especially for a city its size. Pages could be written on the subject, so in order to simplify matters, the following- are the names of some places to jot down in advance of your visit..

Really smart restaurants (and remember in Budapest you have tea about six and dine from nine to ten) are: Hungária, Dunapalota, Kis Royal, Kakuk, Cziegler’s Gundel’s and Piccadilly Grill on Marguerite Island. Places for tea: Gerbeaud’s (one daygo to their city place, another. their branch in the bois). Ruszwurm’s, and Lukacs. As to night clubs, don’t miss Arizona, one of the most original places you ever saw. Moulin Rouge, and Parisian Grill.

If you fear your Budapest will consist solelvfeasting

mm?'*

The Houses of Magyar (Hungarian) Parliament in Budapest ---- built on the shore of the Danube and

constitutes the most magnificent block of Parliament buildings to be found on the continent

of goulashes, chicken paprikas and other peppery dishes, let me cheer you with the news that vou can find fare not onlv fine — but simple. The egg- dishes popular on lunch menus are cooked in a number of provocative ways. Mushrooms and tomatoes are unusuallv good, and fruit such as melon and peaches are large and luscious. There’s no better fish in the world than the fogas from Lake Balaton. It’s at its best cooked simply' — meuniere or cold with mayonnaise. Corn, vou may be glad to know, is popular in Hungary =— one of the few countries in Europe where they consider it good for man as well as beast. Don’t worry lest you be in for a lot of too sweet wine. Their popular tokav can be had so dry it’s fine for aperitif use and the champagne is not only cheap, but sufficiently brut to please American palates. \\ hat’s more, the drv varieties of this Hungarian vintage are now coming into America.

The next important point is. where to swim. Budapest bath-mad. I’m sure there’s no city in the world that has such a collection of attractive and elaborate bathing establishments.

Some of them are in the nature of curative baths and thousands of people take the cure in Budapest. In fact, it’s often called “The Spa City.” For outdoor bathing, you’re best bets are : the St. Gellert Baths, famous for the artificial wave pool with its elaborate setting; the Széchényi Baths. more roomy-, less “stunty”, and very beautiful with its many fountains, statues and trellises; the Palatínus Baths on Marguerite Island. Here, in this spacious bathing place, you can swim in the Danube, after which vou lie in recesses on the pools carving in temperature. Also medicinal open air Sitz batik

TH» ELIZABETH BRIDGE at night.

bridge is one of

It connects the tiro parts of the city, Buda and Pest, the most beautiful structures of the world

The

Among the most interesting baths in Budapest are those erected by- the Turks during their occupation of the city. Some of these ancient. massively built, mosque-like establishments are still used, modern improvements having been installed. It’s well worth while to have a look at their oriental rooms and try the waters which spring out of the earth right into the pool you bathe in. Among the best are the Király Császár, and St. Lukacs baths.

You’ll probably be surprised at the number of smart shops, particularly on the streets right back of the Corso. Jewelry, mostly semi-precious — especially in quaint old settings — will attract you. Also peasant handicraft such as embroidery-, laces — and articles ofpainted wood. And men visitors shouldn’t miss the opportunity of getting a pair of shoes from Csákány, who many (even Londoners) consider the best bootmaker in Europe.

You may think I’m a veryfrivolous guide to have arrived thus far in my suggestions for your three day’s visit with nary a word about your cultural pursuits. Budapest does, of course, possess many attractions in the way of sights dear to Baedeker. The houses of Parliament, old palaces, and museums are extremely interesting and the art galleries contain much that is worth while. But, frankly, when in Budapest 1 never feel like sightseeing in the same way I do in a-city such as Munich or Vienna. And you must remember, Budapest is gay as can be — easily the liveliest city on the continent. Your nights are apt to be long with the result that when you do ‘ get going in the morning, you’ll probably feel more in the mood for a visit to one of the bathing places than to a museum.