Porhászka László: The Danube Promenade - Our Budapest (Budapest, 1998)
cafés' terraces outside, sipping away at a cup of coffee and a glass of fresh cold water. A characteristic feature of the promenade was the large number (eight or even ten rows deep on Vigadó tér) of Buchwald chairs. (Uniformed “Buchwald-ladies” collected the few forints’ rental for these chairs, which were constantly occupied in fair weather. You could meet the whole of Pest here, from elegant ladies to penniless students who, leaning against the railings, listened to the violin music of Imre Magyari. Respectable gentlemen taking their afternoon stroll or discussing business could often see popular writers and famous actors here. The gossip column of Színházi élet (Theatre Life) liked to cover the promenade, where it was easy to photograph Elma Bulla, Ida Turay or Ella Gombaszögi. The promenade was like a glamorous stage. The light superficiality of the life here is reflected in the following anecdote. The writer Jenő Heltai was strolling on the esplanade when he was joined by a young man. They were in the middle of a pleasant conversation when somebody greeted the writer. “Who was that?” asked the young man. “How do I know? I don’t even know who you are,” answered Heltai... On 1 September 1939 World War II broke out, which soon cast its shadow over the carefree quiet of the promenade. The government decreed nightly blackouts. The famous floodlighting was over, leaving the Citadella, the Chain Bridge and the Buda Castle in darkness. Soon a new technical installation appeared near the Café Dunacorso on Vigadó tér in the shape of an air-raid siren placed on top of a tall iron post. Although as yet with a certain amount of discretion, a large proportion of hotel rooms in Budapest were requisitioned for military purposes, which is why more high ranking officers than usual showed up on the promenade. Introduced in the following years, general rationing becoming increasingly stricter, together with specific restrictions regulating the food that could be served in restaurants, but these were less severely felt in the luxury hotels of the promenade. Rather than fall off, business actually took an upward turn. On hearing the gloomy news of the war, many believed that they should seize the time before it was too late. This ill-boding boom led to the opening of a new, elegant night club on the promenade in 1941. The 32
