Kocsis Irma: A tour of our Locals. (A very quick one) - Our Budapest (Budapest, 1993)

to lick the regulars’ hands out of pure high spirits. After closing time Wichmann (a man of imposing build) sometimes strums his guitar and sings. This pub operating in the old centre for believers in the transmigration of souls is thus located on the boundary that separates the realm of the living from that of the dead: the famous canoe reminds us of Charon’s boat.

Kóser Kocsma Kosher Püb

VII. Klauzál tér 16

For me, a mysterious place. For some unfathomable reason 1 have never yet found it open. But I have recommended it to many, who have all praised it back to me. So I had them tell me in detail what it was like at least. Strictly speaking, it is a wine-shop where wine is sold on a take-away basis, and brandy too, measured out into coca-cola bottles. Someone told me there were no tables or chairs but regulars could down a shot of brandy standing by the wall.

Kádár Étkezde Kádár Eating-Hoüse

VII. Klauzál tér 9

“Kádár” is a household name, though Garami now manages the place. Dedicated photographs of old, famous regular customers hang on the walls. Colour pictures of a fiery red fire-eater expressing heartfelt thanks for his cholet, Mastroianni smiling. Behind me two old Hungarians from Los Angeles are talking nostalgically of cholets of yore. The soda siphons standing on the tables are a local custom (supplied by Harmos, naturally), so is having to pay the white-coated head- waiter at the door on the way out. He accepts no tips, for that one must present oneself before the waitress, and discreetly slip the chosen amount into her apron pocket. They close around four, and take a vacation in the summer.

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