Kocsis Irma: A tour of our Locals. (A very quick one) - Our Budapest (Budapest, 1993)

hero named Rózsa in the Party, so Rózsa utca was allowed to stand. Not like the Rózsa restaurant at the Podmaniczky utca end of the street. They used to serve fantastic gizzard stew with gnocchi yellow from all the eggs used in making them, and of course cucumber salad to go with it, with plenty of paprika sprinkled on the sour cream dressing. It has been closed for months. No one knows what’s to become of it. At the beginning of Rózsa utca, opposite the Railways Art Circle, there is a second, superb, Rózsa "Ale-house”, with a couple of stairs leading into a small room on the right, and an opening to the left through which you can see into the taproom. Kis Sün Sörivó Little Hedgehog Beer-House VI. Podmaniczky utca 29 In the beginning it really was “little”. Three partitioned- off boxes, draught beer. With a waitress whose favourite flower was the rose. In the evenings the publican would stand a couple of us a glass of champagne. Behind the bar counter an invisible staircase led up to the tiny gallery, the windows of which were the arches that completed the downstairs windows. I liked sitting there, especially when the trees of Podmaniczky (Rudas) utca had begun to turn green. The dangling branches of one of the saplings almost touched my table. The gallery no longer functions as such, but they have opened a roomy, clean, almost sterile restaurant in the cellar. This, too, has boxes, and the pörkölt stew, and their flaked pastry roll filled with stewed cabbage, is really very good. Podmaniczky utcai Borharapó The Tavern of Podmaniczky utca VI. Podmaniczky utca 31 Not far from the Kis Sün Sörivó, this is a longish, typical wine-cellar with many rooms, full of cunning little alumi­nium plaques calling your attention to all kinds of clap­trap. This is how the passage connecting the two main “pipes” is designed: one step down, two steps forward, 28

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