The Eighth Tribe, 1980 (7. évfolyam, 1-12. szám)
1980-05-01 / 5. szám
Page 8 THE EIGHTH TRIBE May, 1980 EXHIBIT OF THE STYLIZED ERA OF AUSTRIA - HUNGARY At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City December 1979 through August 1980 More tlian 150 men’s and women’s costumes as well as accessories of the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries are on view, giving hints about a by-gone past of this central European region. Also on display are weaponry and saddlery together with some ornate horse furnishings among other things. The exhibit contains specimens loaned hv the Institue of Military History in Vienna as well as the National Museum in Budapest among other special collections through arrangements by Diana Vreeland of the Costume Institute, M.M.A. As befitting the specific mode and the times, background music that included Liszt and Strauss selections permeated the atmosphere. Among the outstanding outfits are those of Emperor Franz Joseph, Samuel Teleki, military and court uniforms (including a triple-cape raincoat), and Transylvanian nobleman’s garb; also, an elegant gown with train that was worn at both coronation ceremonies of Franz Joseph and Karl I (in the 19th and 20th centuries respectively). A spectacular display was that of an all-black, formal court mourning attire, embellished with heads, lace flounces, and plumed mask. In addition, there were several items from Empress Elizabeth’s wardrobe, all enunciating her tiny waistline: a ballroom gown of hand-embroidered rosebuds and handstitched rows of green ruffles on fine white lawn, plus several black silk and taffeta long-sleeved vests—one which she wore on the day she was fatally stabbed (in Switzerland, 1898). Also on view was a carriage-coach (equipped to he drawn by horse) for the young Crown Prince Rudolph. Pictures also were on display of him as an infant as well as his parents, and others including that of Franz Ferdinand, nephew of Franz Joseph. One is impressionahly affected by the lavish use of lace, braid, elegant fabrics, gilt embroidery, beading, and fur trimming (the latter, in the men’s fashionwear, somewhat to a greater extent than that for women. Noteworthy is the perfectionism in the fine hand-sewing and embroidery; in one instance, a flatsurfaced, rather plain material had been converted into an extraordinary-looking garment by numerous, tiny stitches, which brought about a raised dimensional effect of a puffed, all-over design in the finished outfit. Evidences of exquisite finishing techniques are also apparent from the uniformity of stitched buttonhole that seemed to resemble machinemade results, in many cases. Even the minute, handstitchery on some women’s shoes are quite remarkable—no less so, the gilt embroidery on net or velvet on other items! One can’t help surmising that hundreds, if not more, hours must have gone into these clothes and accessories made by numerous nimble hands of unknown women and men. However, some of the later (that is, 20th century) fashions did bear credit to the creative efforts of specific designers’ houses (at least, those of Austrian identity). Photos or sketching were not permitted of any items shown. For review of highlights together with a few pictures, refer to “Hapsburg (sic) Splendor at the Met," New York Times Magazine, November 25, 1979, pp. 142-46. The exhibit conveys an idea of a past era of sociocultural life in Austrian-Hungarian history. It is worthy of view to history, art, needlecraft, etc. buffs of both sexes. At the time of this writer’s visit, it was overheard from a museum guard that there were then counted over one thousand spectators in an hour at this specific collection. For those interested, hours at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (5th Ave. at 82nd St., N.Y.C.) are: Tues. 10:00-8:45, Wed.-Sat. 10:00-4:45, Sun. 11:00-4:45 p.m. M. Takacs Barboe * ☆ NUCLEAR PLANTS ‘SAFE’ — Teller Dr. Teller came to the heart of Three Mile Island country to assert that nuclear plants are safe, but must be operated by higher paid, better qualified “nuclear engineers. He blamed the Nuclear Regulatory Commission (NRC) for so badly mismanaging nuclear power that public panic was inevitable after the reactor accident at Three Mile Island on March 28, 1979. The U.S. should not only get the Three Mile Island plant cleaned up and working again, but start now to build “several hundred” nuclear power plants to head off potential worldwide catastrophe, nuclear scientist Edward Teller urged. He warned that the Russians would be within a week of cutting off both energy supply and freedom for most of the world by grabbing control of the Mid- East Oil supply.
