The Eighth Tribe, 1978 (5. évfolyam, 1-12. szám)
1978-09-01 / 9. szám
Page 8 THE EIGHTH TRIBE September, 1978 Budapest today is one of the most westernized cities of the Eastern hloc nations. It has heen magnificently restored and lias regained most of its former opulence. The forested hills of Buda hide a multitude of villas and mansions, former dwellings of the wealthy and the nohility which now have been subdivided into apartment buildings. The hills are also dotted with small, charming inns — csárdás — serving some of the most delicious fare this side of heaven. Hungarian cookery has long been misunderstood and underrated. Its many subtleties and diversities would take volumes to describe. As early as the 15th century, during the reign of King Mátyás, Hungarian cuisine underwent a complete metamorphosis under the influence of French and Italian chefs brought to Hungary by Queen Beatrice from her native Italy. Since then, chefs and housewives have refined the heavier peasant dishes and have evolved a new, much more savory Magyar haute cuisine. Viticulture has existed on the sunny slopes since Homan times, and today the major wine-growing regions of Hungary are found on Lake Balaton in Badacsony, which lies in the southern part of the country, and north of Budapest around Eger and Tokaj, which are situated on the slopes of the Bükk and Mátra Mountains. All are just about a two-hour ride from Budapest on excellent highways. Lake Balaton is an inland “sea,” and Badacsony is a flat-topped volcanic mountain which dominates the eastern shore of the lake. Nature has chosen Badacsony as one of the few prime areas for growing grapes which yield wines acclaimed by connoisseurs around the world. There is a fine wine museum on the mountain of Badacsony, where visitors may sample the bounty of the vineyards. The museum displays assorted ancient wine presses, casks and old long-necked gourds which were once used to siphon off the wine. Eger is an enchanting medieval town with one of the few' remaining minarets — a reminder of the Turkish occupation — and a huge fortress which dominates the landscape. It is the center of some of Hungary's most famous wines, among them the Egri- Bikavér, or Bull's Blood, which gets its name from its deep bluish-red color and robust flavor. Every September, just as in days of old, the hills at Lake Balaton and around Eger and other wine growing regions come alive with the sounds of lusty singing as young men and women go out to the vineyards to gather the heavy bunches of sun-ripened grapes. V hen the barrels in the cellars are filled, it is the signal for the start of a great festival. Fresh grape juice and aged wine are drunk in great quantities, while gypsies play and colorfully dressed villagers dance. There are so many things to see and experience in this enchanting, tiny country. On the Puszta — the great plains — Magyar cowboys dressed in garb reminiscent of their Asian ancestors tend their longhorned cattle, herd their sheep, ride magnificent horses and cook under the stars. Artisans still embroider intricate patterns, paint exquisitely colorful designs on all shapes of pottern and painstakingly tool pewter and copper into handsome utensils. The western portion of Transdanubia, along the Austrian border, is Haydn country, where the great composer spent a good deal of his life in one or another of the multitude of Esterházy chateaus which dot the landscape. The world has indeed come a long way since the seven Magyar tribes set out in the footsteps of their legendary kinsmen to cross the mountains and claim the land which today is known as Hungary. Hungary is a country which combines the old and the new in a most delightful way, so beautifully exemplified by the Budapest Hilton — perhaps a crowning tribute to this nation’s past and present. —o— MUSHROOMS BUDAPEST STYLE 1 pound medium-size mushrooms 2/3 cup flour, sifted 1Y2 teaspoons baking powder Vi teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon paprika 2 eggs, beaten Milk Cut stems off mushrooms; wash, then wipe mushrooms completely dry. Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and paprika. Add eggs and enough milk to make a batter the consistency of heavy cream. Blend well together. In^a deep fryer or skillet, heat oil to 375 degrees, or until some smoke appears. Dip each mushroom separately into the batter and fry a few at a time until browned. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with more salt. Serve on toothpicks* as hors d'oeuvres, or as appetizers with Tartar Saure (recipe following). TARTAR SAUCE 1% cups mayonnaise 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped scallions 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh or dried tarragon 1 tablespoon chopped capers 1 small pickle, finely chopped Combine all ingredients and blend well. Courtesy of Carte Blanche Magazine: March-April, 1978
