Kovács Ferenc et al.: Fardagály és kámvás rokolya. Divat és illem a 19. században (Budapest, 2010)
Az öltözködés története 1840 - 1900
AZ ÖLTÖZKÖDÉS TÖRTÉNETE 1840-1900 rokkal. Nappali és társasági fejfedő a cilinder, divatos a barkó és a bodorított haj. Elegáns úr kesztyű, sétapálca vagy ernyő nélkül nem ment ki az utcára. Az arany vagy ezüst zsebórát hosszú láncon hordták. Nyakkendőtű és pecsétgyűrű egészítette ki az öltözéket. A női ruhák anyaga többnyire flanel, batiszt, pamut- vagy selyemmuszlin és sima szövet. A színek frissek, vidámak, gyakori a kockás, csíkos öltözet. A férfiak a mellény és nyakkendő kivételével mellőzték a selymet. A legkedveltebb fekete vagy „Werther-kék” mellett barna, zöld, szürke vagy lila szövetet választottak. Csokortartó, aranyozott réz, gyönggyel, 1840-es évek, MNM Flower holder, gold plated copper with pearls, 1840s, HNM quered or shiny velvet, shaped like a capote and decorated with lace or feathers. The hair was combed into complicated buns by the hairdresser, who visited the house daily, and who enriched the hairstyle - combed into the shape of a rose and surrounded with curls at each side - with false locks of hair. (At balls, flowers and ribbons were also laced into the hair). On their feet they wore thin-soled slippers with no heel made from soft fabric or silk, or else piqué velvet bootees. They also enjoyed wearing cross-laced shoes, which were tied to their ankles using ribbons. Later, flat-soled laced shoes also appear. Fashionable accessories included fine, tight gloves, tiny handbags, parasols, fans and muffs. Jewellery was generally made out of gold and extremely large. Elegant ladies decorated themselves with medallions on necklaces, long earrings, brooches and finely crafted belt buckles. In contrast to decorative ladies’ fashion, men’s clothing was more unobtrusive, elegant and practical They wore white, starched shirts with high collars reaching up to the cheeks. This was the so-called Vatermörder or “father-killer", because according to the tale one young man wearing such a collar embraced his father with such vehemence, that he stabbed poor papa to death with his collar. The tie, which was looped several times, was made out of silk and the end was usually tied into a tidy bow. A decorative waistcoat was worn over the shirt, usually made from patterned or striped velvet or silk and fitting close to the waist with a collar. The tailcoat was left unbuttoned at the front, with slightly puffy sleeves at the shoulders. The chest and shoulders were padded, to make the waist look more slender. Frock coats reached down to the knees and were heavily pleated at the back, making them stand out from the waist down. Several types of overcoat were in fashion. These usually followed the shape of the tailcoat or frock coat. Wide, scarf collars are common, usually covered in fur. They reached down to the ankles, much like the still fashionable cloaks. A new style appeared in the form of the straight-cut, high-buttonedpaletot coat. Chequered, tight pantaloons were also popular. Shoes had stubbed toes with small, flat heels. Top hats were worn during the daytime and at social functions; sideburns and wavy hair were also fashionable. An elegant gentleman could not go out into the street without his gloves and cane, or umbrella. Gold or silver pocket watches were worn at the ends of long chains. The costume was completed with a tiepin and signet ring. Ladies’ dresses were usually made out of flannel, batiste, cotton or silk muslin, or simple fabric. Colours were fresh and cheerful; checked and striped clothing is popular. Gentlemen preferred not to wear silk, with the exception of the waistcoat and tie. Apart from the most popular black or “Werther’s blue”, they also chose brown, green, grey or purple fabrics.
