Kovács Ferenc et al.: Fardagály és kámvás rokolya. Divat és illem a 19. században (Budapest, 2010)
A 19. századi divatlapok és divatképek
Fashion Periodicals and Fashion Plates or the 19th Century i7Ffi~NiV»r4réifr«i Szabásminta-melléklet a Divat Salonból, 1892 Sewing pattern supplement from Divat Salon, 1892 At around the time of the Compromise with Austria, the periodical had some 2500 subscribers. The editors were, however, unhappy with the slow rise in their number. They felt that they were too few in comparison with the vast amount of knowledge the periodical provided. Indeed within just the field of needlework the Magyar Bazar provided a myriad of information on raised and coloured embroidery, braiding, knurling knitting knotting and beadwork. During the course of a single year they published around 300 full-size sewing patterns, 1000 drawings of various types and 24 coloured Hungarian plates (these were published separately by the paper, because of course they did not appear in the original German version). As in the case of almost every other similar publication, the plates were supplied by one of the famous Pest fashion shops of the day, Monaszterly and Kuzmik. The periodical provided continuous information on Pest’s more notable traders, craftsmen’s workshops and salons, where items that may be of interest to women were produced and sold. Its supplement paper included 12-15 entertaining and instructive articles. Onjanuary 1st 1866,on the same day as the Magyar Bazár, the periodical Divat (Fashion) was also started, published twice a month and edited by Imre Aldor. From 1867 the periodical is edited by the Wohl brothers, then from May 1875 by Ferenc Friebeisz. The fashion column, entitled “Walks along Váci Street ”, is headed by “Hajnalka" (Mrs. Rózsaági Etelka Bálintfíy), the popular woman writer of ladies’ periodicals from the 1860s and 70s. In this she chats about what she has seen regarding colour, shape and fabric, what can be used to sew what, and in relation to this what the current fashion is in Paris. From Issue no. 8 the column is taken over by Stefánia Wohl. With her, this section is even livelier, including many more illustrations and patterns. Scores of small needlework items are included for women to make at home. The periodical provides housewives with advice on what to wear, shopping and other practical subjects. It also takes on orders, promising tasteful and precise work and dispatch. The coloured fashion plates are originally predominantly Hungarian (tailoring shape, braiding), but these are soon replaced by French designs. The reason for this is most probably the prevailing of the French tastes of the Wohl brothers, and also the fact that the Alter and Mss fashion house is replaced by Monaszterly and Kuzmik, who bring in their models in from Paris. From March of 1875 the periodical splits into parts. The polite literature section merges with the Nejelejts and is published as a new paper under the name Divat-Nefelejts. At the same time the Divat tries to keep afloat as solely a fashion periodical, with restricted size and content, but only manages to survive until autumn 1876, when it stops being published. The Divatvilág (World of Fashion), edited by Irma Beniczky and started in 1867, existed for only a year. It appeared “for every single Hungarian lady, ir-23
