Rédey Judit: Hideg nyalat és spanyol tekercs. A fagylalt, a jégkrém és a parfé története (Budapest, 2007)

Fagylalt ábrázolás Dobos C. József: Magyar-francia szakácskönyvében Depiction of ice cream in József Dobos C's Hungarian-French Cookbook several times, and take a spatula made especially to this purpose to peel away the layer of ice cream frozen to the side of your casket, and smash it up to finer layers. You must take care that your ice cream stays free of clods and ice chips, hard in consistency, but refined and gentle at the same time, like fresh butter, which should be achieved solely by unceasing rotation of the casket and the peeling away and breaking up of the ready ice cream parts frozen to the side with the spatula. After you let the water down from the ice via the tap, and the opening of the casket, the peeling down and breaking up oj the ice cream from its side is finished at least four times, cover your casket well again, put some more salt upon the ice and cover the top of the casket, too, and leave it standing thus for the space of an hour. Before you serve the ice cream, dip the casket suddenly in hot water and dry it then, finally tumble out the ice cream on a plate. If, however, you wish to serve ice cream in special shapes, work your casket until the ice cream turns into solid material; then paste it into the mold, cover it well and place some ice over it. (Jozefa St. Hilaire: Picture Cookbook oj Pest, Budapest, 1894.) Ice Creams The preparation of ice cream has been regulated for several years by a Decree in Hungary. We must prepare ice cream observing that Decree. The quality of your ice cream, though, will not depend upon the Decree alone, but in all cases, from the good taste and the expertise displayed by the confectioner. You must remember not to use copper (either red or yellow) for the making of any ice cream that has milk in it, which is expressly forbidden by the Decree, rather an enameled dish, the best for cooking, however, is a stainless steel pot. You can use china, fayance or stoneware dishes for storage. The quality of the ice cream will depend upon not only its composition but. also its creation. Most confectioners, factories, restaurants and cafés today prepare it with electric machinery. The advantage of that is saving labor, while it raises the quality of the ice cream and also lengthens its shelf life. Raising the quality of the ice cream is done among other factors by the addition of various materials containing pectin. Where you do not have an electric machine ready, people still use salted ice for freezing the mass. One must consider that the Decree cited specifies that you must use artificial ice wherever it can be acquired, since natural ice is questionable from the point of view of health specifications. Machines can be used for the making of ice creams with natural ice too (either electric or hand-driven freezers), but a relatively small quantity can be done in a beater basin - as long as it is not copper, but rather tin-plated or stainless steel dish. You must break up the ice to walnut-sized chunks either for a machine or for a small beater basin, salt it well and mix it up. If you are using a small beater dish, with no machinery, place the salted ice into a dish larger than your basin, press down and create a basin shape depression in the ice, and place your basin in there containing the ice cream mass. Rotate the basin with your fingers until the mass begins to freeze. Mix it well with a wooden spoon several times to render it smooth, and freeze it all over with repeated mixing, unit!