Rédey Judit: Hideg nyalat és spanyol tekercs. A fagylalt, a jégkrém és a parfé története (Budapest, 2007)

Önműködő fagylaltgép (német felirattal) Automatic ice cream maker (with German inscription) time in 1789. An inheritance record from 1793 lists the following items: „9 finjansfor ice cream & 1 1 boate-shaped bowls with handle and mouthpiece, also for ice cream..." We can establish that the expression fagylalt spread out from the end of the 18 th century in the public awareness of Hungary. According to István Czifray's Hungarian National Cookbook', published in Pest in 1840: „an etui (casket) made of tin-sheet or tin-plate is required for the making oj ice cream, with a closely fitting top to avoid opening by itself and the stuff mixing with the outside ice... This is how you handle it: break the ice up, sprinkle it liberally with salt, then pour it into a cowl leaving a hollow in the middle of the ice. That is where your casket comes, to be rotated slowly. Check the inside every once in a while, and when your ice cream already sticks to the casket's side, press it together with a spatula especially made for that purpose. Make sure your lickable treat has no caking or ice clots!" The true procession of triumph of ice cream in Pest-Buda began during the early 19 th century. 8 That is when richly ornamented pastry shops and cafés appeared in the wake of the earlier sweetmeat shops which sold through the street. Guests could sit down and consume the various delicacies in a pleasant environment. This new type of public place soon became a favorite of social life, as cafés did earlier. Ice cream similar to the modern type was first sold in Péter Fischer's confectioner kiosk. Fischer bought his master's (Peter Troll) business in 1823; the shop was located in Úri street (today: Petőfi Sándor street). He rented the halls of the Redoute (today's Vigadó Hall) downtown between 1835 and 1836, organizing balls and selling his sweet products in what would amount to a buffet bar in our times. His new shop in Szervita square was already lushly decorated in 1837, offering the most popular newspapers and magazines as well to the guests. That was the first shop in Pest built with a large portal shopwindow, with a coat of arms portraying the goddess Hebe - the cup-bearer of the Olympian gods. Fischer opened his ice cream kiosk in front of his Szervita square mam establishment in 1840. It was called Kiosk Hebe due to the portrayal of the goddess on its sign-board. He relocated his kiosk to Színház square (today's Vörösmarty square) in 1842. It did not take long for the Pest clientele to take to ice cream, and an especially large turnover was served on days when the regimental band played on the square. That is where Ferenc Deák" also consumed his ice cream. Fischer's selection at the time consisted of 12 kinds of ice cream, his main attraction was the pomegranate ice cream, the recipe of which was never disclosed by the famous Master. Aside from the mostly appreciative accounts, his ice cream shop met some sharp criticism also. Ignác Nagy, for example, gave the following explanation for the reason why the best ice cream in Pest was found at Fischer's shop.

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