Rédey Judit: Hideg nyalat és spanyol tekercs. A fagylalt, a jégkrém és a parfé története (Budapest, 2007)

Fagylalt kelyhek Ice cream bowls During those times, this café was the favorite of revolutionary Parisians. Marat's printing press was located right behind the Café, and Danton also lived nearby. Their fiery rhetoric had a great effect upon the Cafe's owner, who organized a celebration of Benjamin Franklin's memory when Franklin died, and named one room of his establishment "the Room of Famous Men." He also operated a kind of public library in the Café, where every journal and magazine was available. He took good care of the relics of the Café: he had Voltaire's broken marble table, which had been turned over by Hébert during a revolutionary night drunk in every respect, repaired. Napoleon as a young lieutenant also frequented Procope's. (Legend has it that the Emperor, when exiled to St. Helen's, received an ice cream machine from a lady admirer.) The Café is operating even today, presently as a luxury restaurant. The conquest of ice cream in Germany has been documented since 1750. It was already sold in glass cups, a favored cold dessert of the breaks of theater performances and large dancing balls. Goethe's mother was purported to pour out the ice cream received by her son as a gift from an amicable French officer in 1759, displaying an abhorrent shudder. Despite that, the poet was known to like this delicacy till the end of his life - especially raspberry ice cream. As with all novelties, first the consumption of ice cream was initially greeted by much opposition. There were those who thought it an unhealthy, damaging habit. Some recommended its consumption only for summertime, others only for the cold months. Finally doctors entered the debate, effectively ending it. Rumor has it that their favorable opinion was somewhat helped by the wallet of Maestro Dubutsson, one of the owners of Café Procope, as well as his famed hospitality extended towards members of the medical profession. Doctors professed that ice cream could contribute to the preservation of health, and they even recommended it on prescriptions. (That was finally consistent with the spirit of Hyppocrates, their colleague from ancient times.) A Hungarian cookbook put it this way in 1903: „A tasty sweetmeat for the healthy, and oftentimes medicine for the sick. .. " During the regency of Napoleon III (1852-1870) we know of serving the first ice cream bowls and glace parfaite (frozen custard) in Paris, while Italy showed the cassata (an Italian ice cream specialty), and Vienna could boast of serving ice coffee. It was first in 1870 that Italian ice cream makers were reported to have crossed the Alps in summer months to make and sell tasty Italian ice cream in other European cities.

Next

/
Oldalképek
Tartalom