Méri Edina: A Pápai Kluge-kékfestőműhely mintakönyvei (Textilmúzeum alapítvány 2003)

paste for multi-colour indigo resist dyeing. The second group is made up of the pattern books with black starch foundation. There are only 3 precisely printed pattern books remaining with more than 400 num­bered samples (Pictures 12-23). The extremely beautiful, breezy wood carving, completed with copper wires and plates are showing a fine detailed Picture of the patterns from the period of the 1777 Hungarian settlement. These are directly connected to the level of European textile printing, which shows relationship with the patterns of the paper and textile wallpaper printing. On the first two pages of the pattern book Turkish-Palmette patterns were collected around a rose-shaped pattern in the middle of the table-cloth. These were used through a century. Its sample is a table-cloth from 1883. The 18-20 cm wide and 25 cm long blocks for hand printing used for the printing of piece-goods are proving the work of a fine, wood-carving specialist. The border blocks were probably made for the 60th anniversary (1843) when the sign-board was also renovated. Variegation was always typical of the border patterns of the indigo resist printed table-clothes and ker­chiefs. On the back side of one of the samples the year 1856 was written, which pro­vides assistance in realising that this group of the pattern books was made before the year mentioned above, and which could be a preparation of the 75th anniversary (1858) of the company's foundation. For this event a decorated table-cloth was also made with the label: "18 Éljen Somló 58" [18 hurrahs of Somló 58]. But here, on the two-cloth­yard wide and four-cloth-yard long table-cloths, which were stretched in the front of the decoration booth during the 150th anniversary (1938), we can also recognise that aside from the traditional borders there are other innovations, too. On the longer side of the table-cloth 6-6 parts were formed for figures painted by brush (unfortunately we do not know its more detailed description by the family account, Matild Kluge 1954). Thus a piece of paper remained with a label, bordering the table-cloth, with reference to the honour of the wine and fun. In 1806, on the close-by Uj-hegy [New Mountain], the Kluge family already had grape worth 800 Forints. Fill up my glass, skunk! To wash down the throat, this is what I want Because the glass is not good when it's empty And the throat is only good if it's shiny. Brother! Fill up my pipe! Let me smoke out my mouth Because only the smoked meat is good And the wine is cure for all of the moods. Cheer up my folks, let's laugh at the worries Let's lock them up in a hurry. Let's have fun in the flush of youth And leave the sadness for the old guys. 18 Hurrahs of Somló 58

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