Endrei Walter szerk.: Textilipari Múzeum Évkönyve 8. 1995 (Budapest, 1995)

dr. Márta Járó: Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads. Results of the scientific investigations

Manufacturing technique and chronology of metal threads according to the contemporary documents and the results of scientific investigations Methods used for the scientific examination of the manufacturing technique The primary standpoint in course of the scientific examination of metal threads is to obtain the possible greatest number of information about the manufacturing technique from the possible smallest sample. For this purpose, modern scientific methods, first of all the scanning electronmicroscopy and the energy dispersive X-ray analysis are the most suitable ones [19]. Combining these modern méthodes with the classical light microscopy and eventually with other methods, we receive pieces of data about the morphology of the thread, the composition of the metal, the layer-structure. The eventual organic support and the core material can also be identified. When applying the test methods one after the other in due order of succession, a complete examination regarding the manufacturing technique can be carried out from a 3-5 mm long metal thread sample [20]. Survey of the manufacturing technique and chronology of the different metal threads according to the contemporary documents and the results of scientific investigations The study of contemporary sources and the results of scientific examinations carried out in Hungary and abroad, rendered possible the drafting of a chronology of the European metal thread preparation. This chronology differs at several points from the earlier one. Point of view of manufacturing technique, new metal thread types were included into the summary. The date of the appearance of some metal thread types, as well as the date of their replacement by a similar thread made by a new technique has been modified to a certain extent. (The - up to now - missing data were taken from the descriptions of the more detailed art-historical reviews.) The manufacturing technique of the metal threads used in Europe until the end of the 19th century will be discussed according to their base material. The period of their use will be given according to our present knowledge. There are many uncertainties yet, the border lines can be made clearer, more pronounced only when the number of data resulting from the scientific investigations will increase. It is very important and necessary that the period of use of the different metal threads determined on the basis of the scientific studies should be approved from the aspect of history of art.