Endrei Walter szerk.: Textilipari Múzeum Évkönyve 8. 1995 (Budapest, 1995)

dr. Márta Járó: Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads. Results of the scientific investigations

MÁRTA JÁRÓ Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads Results of the scientific investigations Introduction The decoration of ecclesiastical and secular textiles with gold threads has a several thousand year old tradition. The lines of the Old Testament written about the making of the pontifical robe (efod) worn by the biblical Aron [1], are most probaly the first written documents of the preparation and application of metal threads (about the 1312th century B.C.). Literal sources of later times give also account of beautiful garments made with gold or silver thread, which were considered as special rarities in the ancient world. Plinius, for instance has seen Agrippina, the wife of caesar Claudius (1st century A.D.) on occassion of a naumachia "in a tunic woven of pure gold" [2]. Josephus Flavius describes that Heródes Agrippa (1st century A.D.) went into the theater in Cesarea "in clothes woven of pure silver with marvellous art" [3]. Complet garments or other textiles decorated with metal threads did not remain from ancient times, we can have an idea of them only on basis of some fragments and remains of metal threads, or in some cases on basis of polychrom statue fragments. We can, however, admire the cloths and other fabrics adorned with gold threads of the Middle Ages on frescos, mosaics, panel paintings, and we can find them among the most carefully preserved pieces of museums and private collections. The developing technique of modern times influenced the technology of the preparation of metal threads as well, gold and silver threads became more available, more and more textiles, richly embroidered or woven with gold threads were worn and used. With the appearance of inexpensive goldimitation threads even the not too rich people were able to buy fabrics decorated with metal threads. For embroideries, weavings, or the preparation of laces, tassels, trimmings, etc. gold and silver threads made by different methods have been used. The study of the manufacturing technique of these threads, their investigation with scientific methods had already started at the end of the last century. Bock published some results obtained with chemical tests in his comprehensive work written about metal threads [4]. In spite of this, disregarding some rare exceptional cases [5,6], the scientific investigation of metal