Mária T. Biró: The Bone Objects of the Roman Collection. (Catalogi Musei Nationalis Hungarici. Seria Archeologica 2; Budapest, 1994)

V. BONE OBJECTS CONNECTED WITH COSMETICS AND PHYSICAL CULTURE

V. BONE OBJECTS CONNECTED WITH COSMETICS AND PHYSICAL CULTURE 1. Unguentum jars (narthecium) . 2. Spatulae (focus) 3. Unguentum sticks. 4. Casket mounts. Roman physical culture in­cluded apart from basic hy­gienic rules (bath, physical training) also cosmetics; the obligatory employment of perfumery and paints for man and woman alike. Bod­ily hygiene and the appropri­ate cosmetics of the face was a prescription of civilized pe­ople. Neatness was one of the most characteristic ma­terial component of Graeco­Roman culture realized aga­in by people only as late as the 19th century. The cultu­re of baths and personal hy­mirror giene has fallen victim to the destruction of the Migration Age and to the devastation of towns (baths). Cosmetics were also assaulted by new ethic val­ues wrapped into aesthetic demands. The rad­ically ascetical and rigourous line of Christian­ity considered unpainted face the mirror of good morals. Besides jewellery they were also fighting against paints, perfumes and oils all promoting sensuality. Although the aesthetic demands of the Church were not compulsory before that Early Middle Ages, still cosmetic devices disappeared from the material culture of the Province ear­lier. The explanation for this and the related phenomena was possibly that Romanization be­gan to " get out of breath" . The assimilation of Fig. 14- Represen tation of unguen­tum stick and box on an Etrsucan ever larger masses of population could be real­ized only more and more superfluously. Roman­ization, at the beginning mediated spiritual, lin­guistic, written and religious values, incidentally embedded into a specifically urbanized material culture. In the course of Romanization, together with the growth of the Empire's territory, this material culture mediating cultural values be­came more and more self-consistent. With ap­proaching the living conditions of the Romans (dwelling, clothing) provincial peoples felt them­selves Roman. In the last century material pres­ence had gradually broken down and Rome was only represented by the military forces and later by their presence declared only in words. Without these historical trends — the change in the construction of the bone process­ing industry producing the same quantity of ob­jects which can be regularly registered — could not be understood. The archaeological relics of physical culture like jars, spatulae, paint palmettes, etc. become less frequent at the end of the 3rd century and by the 4th century they completely disappear from our province. Although this century is the great flourishing of bone processing industry. It could be explained by the circumstance that the bone tools, hard to clean were substituted by glass being more suitable for cosmetic purposes. Glass, which tends to be a cheap mass prod­uct in the 4th century. It is more likely, how­ever, that behind the disappearance of the above mentioned objects historical processes, social re­arrangements, ruralism and impoverishment are lying as referred to, all resulting a fundamental change in requirements.

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