Oroszi Sándor szerk.: A Magyar Mezőgazdasági Múzeum Közleményei 1998-2000 (Budapest, 2001)

KNÉZY JUDIT: A környezetváltozások hatása a halászatra és a halfogyasztásra a Dunántúlon

FISH CONSUMPTION IN WESTERN HUNGARY (18th-19th centuries) J. KNÉZY Hydraulic regulations started in the late 18th century in this territory and they had finished by the beginning of the 20

,h century. These alterations had beneficial effect on cereal growing but influenced unfavourably the evolution of fish-stock and fish consumption. Contemporary authors made references to a fabulous richness in fishes and crayfishes. Different methods and tools were used for fishing in big rivers like Danube, Dráva, Rába and in lesser ones, in brooks, natural lakes, artifical ponds and mill-races. Fish-farms in large estates became very important in the 18"' century. The right of fishing belonged to the landlords who might lease out this right, including that of catching of crayfish and turtle, to others against various services. Most important fish species of this region in the 18

th century included great sturgeon, different sturgeon varieties, carp, silure, crucian and there were some imported sorts, too. As regards dishes made of local fish-sorts, crayfish and turtle, in most cases rather mentionings than detailed descriptions can be found in eighten-century accounts of travels, works of local history, notes of farming. Recipe-books of the age mostly comprised recipes from cookery-books that had already been published abroad. Nevertheless, we known about some fish dishes such as roast fish on spit, dried, parched, smoked fish, fish-soup, these having even occured in dokuments of witchcraft trials. The first data from Transdanubia concerning fishsoup cooked red pepper (paprika) date back to 1805, however, fish-soup was also prepared without paprika up to the 1830s. Authors specializing themselves in farming attached great importance to conserving fish by smoking. Fish consumption was higher among Catholic population than among Protestants, fish played particularly important role on the fast of priests. The best part of fishes caught got to the table of squires, prelates, gentry, the rest remaining to common people. Crayfish was eaten by landlords end peasants alike, while turtle only by gentlefolks. On the other hand loach was popular food of the poor. Fish consumption varied according to social strata and etnic groups. In the period of Austrian Empire and later (after 1867) in Austro-Hungarian Monarchy it was Hungary that supplied Vienna and Graz with fish, crayfish and turtle. The goods were transported in fresh (ice-cooled), dried or smoked state. Conversely, the import of these goods was very low.