Műtárgyvédelem 24., 1995 (Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum)
Restaurálás - Sterbetz Katalin: XVIII. századi frakk-kabát restaurálása
JEGYZET 1. Anyagvizsgálat: Alapanyag: 8 fonalas láncoldalú atlasz. Lánc és vetülék sodratlan selyem. Hímzés: laposhímzés sodratlan selyem Flitter: ezüstözött réz Bortni: rézszálból és pamutfonalból szövött. THE RESTORATION OF AN 18th CENTURY TAILCOAT Abstracts: This late 18th century tailcoat was tailored according to the French fashion of that period. It has a narrow, standing collar and tight sleeves with a closely attached cuff. Its hind-part is slit up to the waist to form the tails, the front is arched with buttons. Both its front and back are lined. The coat is decorated with embroidery, paillettes, and metal thread border. Chain threads on the sleeves had broken and the forearm section had been repaired by a covering of blue linen. The silk lining was incomplete, stained and greasy. The folded attachment between the coat and its lining was torn. The flat embroidery combined with paillette is intact. In most cases, however, the paillette is represented by imprints on the material’s surface and must originally have covered the entire coat. The aim of my work was to restore this piece for the purposes of exhibition. This included cleaning and the conservation of weakened parts. It was possible to apply wet treatment. An important aspect of this work is to minimize the need for opening original seams. Originally, therefore, it was decided to remove only the collar, sleeves and lining. During the course of this work, however, a stiff canvas reinforcement was discovered under the lining and the tails were also found to cover each other. Consequently, all the defining seams of the coat had to be unstitched. Canvas and silk expand by different rates when made moist, therefore separation seemed to be advisable. The paillette decoration was fastened to the silk satin and therefore it had to be unstiched as well before the materials could be separated. Since only little of the paillette survived, their fastening was weakened and their location could be precisely documented so that where unstitching was necessary could be relatively easily decided upon. The blue linen repair on the sleeves was also removed because its stitching stretched the original material thereby weakening it. Below this layer, however, the satin silk was quite incomplete. Cleaning was carried out using Hostapon, an anionic detergent. The collar, sleeves and cuffs had to be fully supported. The right side pocket was heavily damaged. The dirt stain had made the material stiff, thus cleaning was likely to destroy most of it. Therefore a copy of the pocket was mounted on the coat, but the original was also saved. Following re-assembling, the restored tailcoat is exhibited on a dummy of appropriate size. A szerző cime/Author’s address: Sterbetz Katalin restaurátor/restorer Néprajzi Múzeum/Ethnographical Museum 1055 Budapest, Kossuth L. tér 12. 75
