Magyar News, 1994. szeptember-1995. augusztus (5. évfolyam, 1-12. szám)

1995-04-01 / 8. szám

Many of our readers from the late thirties through the early seventies have been to Little Hungary Restaurant which was located in die West End (Hungtown) of Bridgeport at I State Street, near the former West Side Bank (Chase) and opposite L.B. Tire Exchange which is still there.

It was the luck of Joe Stiber and Julius Varga to spend a pleasant afternoon with Bill Sáray, ex-proprietor, and the last member of the Sáray family. Bill is a spry 81 with a firm voice, full hair, charm and a very good recall. His wife, Grace, was there to fill in an occasional void.

The original building was built in the late twenties by Lou Present who had a gas station on the comer and as tenants a shoe repair shop and an ice cream parlor (Memories).

When prohibition was repealed, the shoe repair and ice cream parlor was gutted to make a large room and opened as Birch Grove restaurant The room and bar was paneled with white birch and branches. For whateverreason, Birch Grove was not profitable.

In 1935, the next owner, Louis Deutsch, an insurance agent, changed the decor and renamed it “Little Hungary.” Deutsch struggled for two years and decided to sell.

Then came Bill Sáray. After much deliberation and nerves of steel, Bill and Betty Csákány bought the place in 1937. They liked the name, thus it remained Little Hungary. The following year Bill’s sister Veronica (Vernie) got into the picture to work in the kitchen with Betty Csákány and Mrs. Sziics. Bill was bartender for highballs, boilermakers (shot and beer), and later a mixologist for fancy mixed drinks. The large room had the bar on the left at the entrance, abandstand on the right, the dance floor in the center and free standing dining tables around the perimeter. People at the bar, three deep at times, were able to hear the band, see the dancing, sing along, and ask girls, whom they knew, to dance. Just like in a ballroom. It was a homey friendly place to takea date, or your wife, to dine and dance. Luck of a Hungarian was with Bill. A state law was passed to separate the bar from the restaurant, but the “grandfather clause” permitted existing establishments to stay as is. This was a life saver.

Now let’s look at some of the 1937 to 1941 prices. Bar whiskey—100; Four Roses, Canadian Club—150; Shot and Beer—200; Scotch—250; Manhattan— 350. Full course meal: chicken soup or salad, chicken paprikás, breaded chicken, pork chops, stuffed peppers, stuffed cabbage—$2.50. Roast Duckling, and T-bone steak was $3.50. Poppyseed, nut rolls (beigle) or palacsinta (crepes) and coffee or tea were included. Dinner prices went up very little until 1973. There was no control on bar prices because of liquor shortages. Bar whiskey rose to 500; Bud, Schlitz botde beer—250; mixed drinks—$1.75.

In 1943 Bill went into the service. Vernie and Betty became equal partners. When Bill returned he bought Betty Csákány’s 4

MEMORIES OF “LITTLE HUNGARY”

Interior of Little Hungary

share who in turn bought Heredovsky’s Restaurant on Pine Street. Vernie became manager and “bouncer” if you stepped out of line. She wanted a respectable place. She had a smile and a greeting for everyone. Everybody was important to her. Bill’s sister June Emery was a big help. She would work the kitchen and the tables. June passed away at the age of 87. Her husband Lou was backup bartender for Bill and Hank Kolakowski. SisterBetty also worked the kitchen. She died at 95. Bill’s wife, Grace, helped at lunches and parties. It was an “All in the Family” place.

Let’s not leave out the great bands that featured Hungarian music. At dinner it was listening music (Hallgató) and ballads. The lead violinist (Prímás), Frank Nagy, would stroll to tables, play a few notes and prompt you with the lyrics to get you to sing. You name the song, he’d start a few notes and the band joined in full harmony. The number one dance was the csárdás, followed by waltz, fox-trot, polka and tango. Members of the band were Árpi Gyurcsák at piano, Dolfmeister played the bass fiddle, and Harry Persico the drums. Frank died rather young. After Frank came Fred Erdos. Other violinists were Louis Zsiga (New Haven Symphony), Sándor Kemény from Norwalk, James Kedves, violin teacher, Jack Still (Stiliha) who was house band at the Ritz Ballroom and Pleasure Beach. A former scholarship student at the List Ferenc Music Academy in Budapest, John Alexander, played at the Piano in Árpi’s absence.

The waitresses were great. Ethel and Emma Kish, Marge Kelemen (Fazekas), Mary Cuddy and her sister Florence. Bill Csépke would frequent the place only to later learn that he was courting Flo, married her and took her away. Csépke opened the Gypsy Camp Tavern at Hancock and Pine

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Veronika Sáray with guest

Streets opposite Zeisler’s Aromatic Bakery.

The West End had three Hungarian places to go to. But the competition was friendly because each one offered a different format. Little Hungary was dine and dance. Heredovsky’s was dine, and nite-club type entertainment with Hungarian bands and singers from New York. Gypsy Camp was a tavern-grill.