S. Perémi Ágota (szerk.): A Veszprém Megyei Múzeumok Közleményei 27. (Veszprém, 2012)
ERDEI T. Lilla - EGERVARI Márta: 16-18. századi fémfonalas csipkék elemzése a VMMI gyűjteményéből
METAL THREADED HUNGARIAN LACES FROM THE 16™-18™ CENTURY FROM THE COLLECTION OF THE VMMI WITH THE AIM OF ANALYSING The early metal threaded Hungarian laces show relatedness with the laces of Genoa from the 16th century. This type of ornament, which was a decoration of the clothing of the prestigious families, was beloved for a much longer period in Hungary than in the Western parts of Europe. The aeriallike western linen lace of the 17 t h century didn't match with the eastern-fashioned Hungarian costume made of heavier material. According to the contemporary findings of Sárospatak, Debrecen and Veszprém, here, in Hungary, the metal threaded lace - just like the guimp - was anchored as overlay along the seaming and borders of the silk and velvet dress clothes. We have chosen six piece of metal threaded bobbin lace from the 16' -17' century from the collection of the VMMI with the aim of analysing their creating techniques and examining their materials. We show these results annexing the completed shop- and structure drawings, based on which reconstruction and copies of the laces can be made. On the I. board a piece of a duble-threaded 1 braided bobbin lace from the 16th century can be seen, which was found during the excavation of the Saint-Benedict hill in Veszprém in 1903. Measures: 1.4 cm x 4.8 cm. Its threads were made by winding a silver strip around a silk weft wrapping twist „S". The pictures of the II—IV hoard another dublethreaded braided lace can be seen, which is from the 16th century, it might have been a wristband. This one has been made from more pieces by needling, then it was decorated by knotted stitches and spangles. Locality: Saint-Ladislaus chapel, Veszprém, 1963. Measures: 6.5 cm x 20.5 cm. The weft of the embroidery is silk, around which a silver strip was winded wrapping twist „S". The weft of the gold thread is also silk, around which strips cut from a one-side gold foil were winded wrapping twist ,,S"\ The V-VI. boards represent a mesh grounded Genoese style lace, which is a unique one. Its analogy is unknown. It was found at the excavation of the SZEMINÁRIUM KERT in/of Veszprém. Age: 17 t h century. Width: 5.5cm. Lenght: it is made up of more 15 cmT2 cm long piece. It might have decorated the bottom of skirts. Its threads are made of silver strip winded around a silk weft wrapping twist „S". The two wavy sidepieces are separated by a silver lamina, the middle of the larger waves are of Leaf-shaped Tallies in groups of six. The lace of the VII.-VIII. board is a laterand and changed form of the Genoese style. Similarly to the privous one, both edges of the sides are wavy seaparated by a silver lamina, it is mesh grounded with arched, square pots. Measures: 2.1 cm x 12.5 cm. Locality: Saint-Benedict hill, Veszprém, 1903. Its thread is made of silver strip and silk wrapping twist „S". On the IX. board an EDGE LACE of dead-sheet from the 17th century can be seen. It is loosestructured, mesh grounded with square pots; on its straight edge one and a half thread goes on as strengthening. Measures: 1.2 cm-112 cm. Thread: silver strip winded around a silk wreft wrapping twist „S". The edge lace of the X-XI. board is mesh grounded, its wavy edge is emphasized with contour threads, while the straight edge with lamina. In the middle there are square pots with twistes picots on the opposite sites. Measures: 1.6 cm x 35 cm. Locality: Berhide, 1963. Thread: flatted strip made up of goldplated silver wire twisted around a silk weft wrapping twist „S". 1 Made up of two threads, thread-paires, which are joint, instead of one. The thread examinations were done by Dr. Márta Járó. Method: energy dispersive X-ray analyses done on the area. 252
