M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)
Analysis - JÁRÓ Márta, GONDÁR Erzsébet: Mediaeval membrane threads used for weaving and embroidery
5.1. Morphological examination Morphological examinations were carried out by an optical microscope with built-in scale and scanning electron microscope. During the microscopic examination it turned out that 4 of the samples did not belong to the membrane threads: they were made from gilt leather. In the following we deal with them separately. 5.1.1. Membrane threads The results of the examination of the 43 membrane threads are shown in Table 1. Except for two, all examined membrane threads are wound around white or yellowish flax or hemp yam in S twists. With samples Nos. 30 and 31 the cores were missing, only a very thin thread inside could be found. The thickness of the threads was not considered a determinant since it could have altered in due course (owing to the unwinding of the threads), and, therefore, only the width of the strips was measured. In order to establish the variation in the size of threads applied for the same piece of textile, more samples were taken from some of the textiles when this was rendered feasible. The value of the textile objects, however, set severe limits on the number of samples to be taken and therefore no proper analysis of variance could be carried out. The data (Table 2) show that there can be a difference of 0.15—0.45 mm in the width of the strips used for the thread samples found on the same piece. It is striking that the variation in size is the smallest where the narrowest strips were used. 5.12. Evaluation of results Taking the variation in size into account an attempt was made to separate the threads according to the width of the strips. As a result, 3 major categories were established: A: narrow strip (025-0.50 mm) (Photo 11); B: medium strip (0.60-1.00 mm) (Photo 12); C: wide strip (> 1.00 mm) (Photo 13). Borderline cases for each category were marked by double letters. Next we examined which kinds of textiles (embroidery or filament, origin, age) belong to the categories established. The results are shown in Table 3. Based on the results we can state the following: — The 16 pieces of textiles belonging to category A are dated to the 14th or previous centuries, except for one. — In categories A and A—B we can find only weavings. — 10 weaving and 3 Hungarian embroideries can be listed under category B. 7 pieces from the 9 textiles assumed to have originated from Lucca belong to this group. — In category B—C weaving and an embroidery are to be found. The 4 examined borders from Cologne belong to this group. — Category C includes only samples taken from 15—16th centuries embroideries except for a weaving originating from Lucca, dated to the 14th century. The actual categorization of the threads can be modified by measuring more samples from the same textile . In case of exception and borderline cases we can take into account the possible inaccuracy of the dating and the determination of the origin besides the measuring inaccuracy . In the next phase of our investigatipn we will attempt to group the membrane threads more accurately using data concerning the way the strips are wound around the
