M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)

Analysis - JÁRÓ Márta, GONDÁR Erzsébet: Mediaeval membrane threads used for weaving and embroidery

JÁRÓ Márta*, GONDÁR Erzsébet** MEDIAEVAL MEMBRANE THREADS USED FOR WEAVING AND EMBROIDERY Abstract — A less researched group of metal threads is that of membrane threads made from cut strips of animal membrane coated with metal (gold, silver) and wound around a core of silk, flax or hemp yarn. A detailed examination of these threads was-initiated by the uncertainties surrounding their origins and spreading as well as the lack of information on how they were actually prepared. The morphological examination of 47 samples ms carried out using an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope. On the basis of data obtained it was possible to differentiate the threads. Up to now only two sorts of membrane threads were distinguished: a fine one and a coarser one. By measuring the width of the strips three main groups and two borderline groups could be established. Four of the samples did not belong to the membrane threads, they have been prepared with gilt-leather strips. The examinations showed that further differentiation is possible on the basis of data concerning the way in which the strips are wound, the twisting of the core, and the method of gilding. The aim of the future investigations is a more precise grouping of the membrane threads using the results of morphological and analytical studies. 1. Introduction The tradition of decorating textiles with metal threads can be traced back for several thousand years. While the techniques of metal thread weaving and embroidery have changed considerably in the course of time, and the variation of motifs has proved to be almost endless, the morphology and the materials employed for metal threads have displayed much less variety. From a morphological point of view metal threads, which were made of metal strips, metal wire, or cut strips of ammal gut, leather or paper with metal on the surface, can be divided into four major groups: 1. strips (Photo 1); 2. wires (Photo 2); 3. strips wound spirally round a core of textile yam — usually of silk, flax or some other thread (Photo 3); 4. wires wound around some sort of core (Photo 4). On the basis of the sort of winding of the threads and the width of the strips the major groups can be divided into subgroups. As to their material, these threads were made of gold (with some silver content), silver (with copper in it), gilt silver, and later — from about the 17th century onwards — copper, gilt, silver gilt or silvered copper and copper alloys. In the Far East as well as in Europe (from about the beginning of the 19th century) other metals such as tin or aluminium were also used for this purpose. An interesting and less researched group of metal threads is that of gold and silver membrane threads made from cut strips of animal membrane or skin coated with metal and wound around a silk, flax or hemp core (Photos 5— 6)rln the special literature they have long been referred to under the umbrella term "Cyprian gold thread". Membrane threads were used mostly for weaving (Photos 7-10) but sometimes for embroidery as well. * National Centre of Museums . H-1087 Budapest, Könyves K. krt. 40. ** INNOVATEXT TextileEngineering H-1103 Budapest, Gyömrői út 86.