M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)

Analysis - TIMÁR-BALÁZSY Ágnes: Investigation of dyes on textiles from the collections of Hungarian museums

Among the brown yarns of the 34 samples taken from 8 blankets of the Ethnographical Museum, 6 proved to be dyed with henna. On the yellow yams weld, on mosi of the green ones fustic with indigo was determined. Although madder grew abundantly in Transylvania, its presence was not detected on any of the investigated blankets for red dyes; cochineal and henna were identified. Among the blue yams which were mainly dyed with indigo, two were found to have been dyed with Prussian blue; this latter would have been difficult to produce domestically. There were some blankets where synthetic basic and acid dyes were found together with yams dyed with natural dyes [6^7]. These facts seem to contradict written sources which claim that the yarns of the "coloured" blankets were always dyed domestically with plants around the homes. 4.8. Results of dye investigation on embroideries from the Great Hungarian Plain Pieces of woollen needlework belong to the oldest peasant embroideries that have survived in Hungary (Photos 9-10). An investigation of dyes of 46 samples from 14 embroidered cushions of the Ethnographical Museum was carried out. On the yellow yams weld, persicaria, safflower and chamomile were identified; on the red ones cochineal or madder. The brown coloured yams were dyed with persicaria, the black ones with elder tree, logwood or tannic, the blue ones with indigo or logwood, the green ones with weld and indigo [67]. Since madder is not indigenous in the Great Hungarian Plain both the madder and the cochineal could have been bought in the shops or from tradesmen. When tracing red dyes, it was observed that in particular regions the same dye was traded, or women seem to have been able to handle one particular sort better. On the red yams on the cushions from Karcag exclusively cochineal was found while on those from Orosháza only red yams dyed with madder were identified. 4.9. Results of dye investigation on a Hungarian noble guardsman's braided gala coat The dyestuff on the red wool of the coat originating from 1869 proved to be cochineal (carmine acid). When the restorer applied sodium hydrogen carbonate to clean the metal braidings of the coat, the red felt turned blue. The textile was treated with 5% acetic acid, and as a result the original crimson colour was regained [68]. 4.10. Results of dye investigation on a "Matyó" skirt from the beginning of the century All the dyes of the bright coloured printed fabric were basic synthetic dyes. On the basis *bn comparing the dyestuff with the reference materials only the Rhc>damin B was identifable (this has been in use since 1887). Because of the presence of the basic synthetic dyes the restorer washed the object very quickly by applying a buffer for pH = 9 [69]. Acknowledgements The author is most greateful to the chemist Maria Hajnal who shared with her the most valuable material of her research on the history and identification of natural dyes. She is also indebted to Walter Endrei, doctor of history, to Professsor István Rusznák, doctor of chemical sciences, and to Judit Franki, candidate of chemical sciences, for their