M. Járó - L. Költő szerk.: Archaeometrical research in Hungary (Budapest, 1988)

Analysis - TIMÁR-BALÁZSY Ágnes: Investigation of dyes on textiles from the collections of Hungarian museums

film, with an exposure time of three hours in a 114.6 mm Debye—Sherrer chamber. Introduction was brought about by a copper anode X-ray tube fitted with a nickel filter at 40 kV and 60 mA. A 2 mm long fibre was pulled into the small glass tube. On the basis of comparing the values for "d" obtained from the relation 2dsiniT=nX with the "d" values in the special literature, it could be stated that in possession of the results of the X-ray diffraction examination, the inorganic pigment may be identified beyond doubt. 3.8. The course of investigation, demand on samples Taking into consideration the rather high costs of the above mentioned methods the curator or the restorer has to think over thoroughly what kind of questions can be answered on the basis of the results of dye investigations. It has to be considered whether it is really necessary to analyse the mordant and the inorganic pigments possibly present if the aim of the investigation is only to identify parts belonging together or to predict bleeding during cleaning. If the curator would like to ask for all the possible investigations, first he or she has to ask for the non-destructive X-ray fluorescence analysis and provide 1.5 cm of the thread. The next step is the X-ray diffraction investigation with a sample demand of 2 mm. Then the organic dyes can be determined by spectroscopic or chromatographic methods from a minhnum 1 mm thread. For analysis of samples of less than 2.0 mg, high pressure liquid chromatography or fluorescence assay can be applied. These latter methods have not been introduced for analysing natural dyes in Hungary yet. When one has to analyse archaelogical textiles, much larger samples are needed. There is not much success in identifying dyes on browned textile finds because of the degraded state of the dye; even so, it is not hopeless. 4. Results and evaluation of the results of dye investigation on textiles from the Hungarian Museum collections In the following reports, only the results of dye analysis which were significant from the point of view of determination of age, "original" colour scheme or conservation process are published. 4.1. Results of dye investigation on the Hungarian coronation mantle The bell shaped chasuble from the 11th century was turned into a coronation mantle in the 13th century. A strap, the present collar originating from the 12th century and 11 patches for mending purposes were probably also attached at the same time. In the 17th century the original Byzantine fabric and the golden embroidery were sewn onto a piece of patterned Italian silk cloth. A second major reparation was carried out in the 1820's, when a claret-coloured support material was applied. The last and present lining was given to it in 1867, before Franz Joseph's coronation [62], 56 samples from the coronation mantle were investigated. On the yellow warp of the Byzantine fabric weld, on the red weft madder, on the bluish-green weft indigo and weld were identified. Consequently the colour of the 11th century base fabric must have been more yellowish. The definition of the original colour of the now khaki embroidered parts was of crucial importance. Since weld on iron mordant was traced on the threads, the colours must have ranged between yellow and green which result supports the art historian's assumption.